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Thread: Timing chain lubrication

  1. #41
    Active Lancista tangmonster's Avatar
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    Re: Timing chain lubrication

    Removed radiator last night and also started with loosening pulley bolt.

    My flywheel has an 8mm hole about 10mm deep which is good for inserting m8 bolt to hold flywheel still.

    I had a few m8 8.8 grade bolts but promply bent 3 while using hammer on large ring spanner.

    My next step is to oil the bolt and possibly try and heat and source some 12.9 grade bolts.



    Removing sump and removing cover will show if oiler was sheared before or after 2005.

    since bearings and pistons was changed then and that is the last time sump was off.

    The vehicle has probably not done 5000km since then. I have been neglecting it standing in the garage. It however did get a respray in 2009 and seat reupholstered and new carpets in 2009. then marriage , work buying house , kids... forward to 2016 , when i got it running rebuild front calipers etc.

    Thanks for all your inputs.

    I'll post pictures and ask for more help as I go along. At worse someone else might learn from these forum posts.

  2. #42
    Senior Lancista bart's Avatar
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    Re: Timing chain lubrication

    A drill bit is much stronger. But you really ought to make a serious stopping device. And a 1 meter pipe on the spanner. Then it's easy...

  3. #43
    Active Lancista tangmonster's Avatar
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    Re: Timing chain lubrication

    Quote Originally Posted by bart View Post
    A drill bit is much stronger. But you really ought to make a serious stopping device. And a 1 meter pipe on the spanner. Then it's easy...
    I cannot see ANY flywheel teeth. through that hole.

    ONLY the stamped 0 and 8. I have NO other grip on the flywheel except for that 8mm hole.

    thanks i will try drill bit also.

    I need to get that 1m pipe, the using of a hammer and shocking is bound to end up doing more harm.
    thanks!

  4. #44
    Legendary Lancista lancialulu's Avatar
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    Re: Timing chain lubrication

    What can you see if you remove the starter motor re the flywheel , but better to drop the sump and lock the crankshaft web with a block of wood on the side of the crank case to take the front pulley bolt off.

  5. #45
    Active Lancista tangmonster's Avatar
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    Re: Timing chain lubrication

    Quote Originally Posted by lancialulu View Post
    What can you see if you remove the starter motor re the flywheel , but better to drop the sump and lock the crankshaft web with a block of wood on the side of the crank case to take the front pulley bolt off.

    The soft lock of block of wood on crank is a better idea thanks.

    Will drop sump.

  6. #46
    Active Lancista tangmonster's Avatar
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    Re: Timing chain lubrication

    Sump removed. and Front cover removed
    The option of using a block of wood between crank and crank case with a 50cm "power bar" proved MUCH easier to loosen bolt.

    At first I tried to work around and not remove water pump but in the end this was removed.

    First problem.

    O-Ring seal on waterpump is completely missing. I can measure , but does anybody have to correct measurements for this o ring for me to source?

    removing the cover went easy from there. NO gaskets was torn in the removal ,and stayed perfectly attached to crank case and block.

    The hole in my oiler was measured by sliding a m3 bolt in and out, so hole is technically 3mm in diameter and not standard 1.5.

    There was NO parts in the sump or anywhere else , so this points to being broken off many many many years ago and not by me.

    Back on 2011 there was another thread on this nozzle:

    http://www.lancisti.net/forum/showth...ain-Oil-Nozzle

    Post 6 sounds like a good option to me. Tapping remaining part of nozzle and fit modified m5x25mm bolt with hole drilled trough. I am all for making this hole smaller than 1.5mm diameter. Post 6 suggest 0.8mm



    My oil pump gap measures double the maximum spec at 0.25mm instead of the 0.12mm spec. I will need to source new one or in spec second hand parts.

    Thanks for all the help so far.

  7. #47
    Legendary Lancista lancialulu's Avatar
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    Re: Timing chain lubrication

    did you find the broken end of nozzle which I suspect is narrower than 2.5mm.

    Have you checked on prices for new nozzles??

  8. #48
    Active Lancista tangmonster's Avatar
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    Re: Timing chain lubrication

    Did not find any parts in sump.

    No local stock apart from complete crank cases. Have sent message to cavallito. Waiting response. But with shipping I could rather get one made up locally than ship.

  9. #49
    Senior Lancista bmarler's Avatar
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    Re: Timing chain lubrication

    i'm surprised you didn't find the nozzle in the sump. i remember in a previous post that you said the oil pressure was good. i thought a symptom of the broken nozzle was low pressure.
    i like the solution from the other thread of tapping the hole and making your own nozzle. i'd be sure to loctite everything on assembly so you don't lose anything into the sump.
    bmarler/
    1967 fulvia sport zagato
    1961 appia vignale convert.

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