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  1. #1
    Experienced Lancista Flaminiasupersport's Avatar
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    Fulvia S1 master cylinder

    I've searched the internet as to how the rubber parts from a revision kit fit into the master cylinder.

    To put it briefly.. the 2 rubbers have their open side facing forward, the smaller ones face each other with the grooved side

    I used special brake grease from ATE to rebuild it, but this was a mistake as it clogs everything and you will not be able to bleed the brakes. Best is to use brake oil.

    The smaller rubbers have very little grooves in them. These are the ones that need to be on the cilinders with the "grooved side" facing each other.

    Hope this sheds some light...

  2. #2
    Master Lancista lukestew's Avatar
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    Re: Fulvia S1 master cylinder

    Quote Originally Posted by Flaminiasupersport View Post
    I've searched the internet as to how the rubber parts from a revision kit fit into the master cylinder.

    To put it briefly.. the 2 rubbers have their open side facing forward, the smaller ones face each other with the grooved side

    I used special brake grease from ATE to rebuild it, but this was a mistake as it clogs everything and you will not be able to bleed the brakes. Best is to use brake oil.

    The smaller rubbers have very little grooves in them. These are the ones that need to be on the cilinders with the "grooved side" facing each other.

    Hope this sheds some light...

    thank you for this.

    Just thought i would add some info that ive learnt with my series 1 ....Ive also found that brake grease doesnt help much and clogs up the very small holes in the piston ends. These holes need to be clear so the fluid can flow from collection part of the piston into the pressure part. (Not sure exactly how else to describe these areas) the fluid needs to be able to flow towards the front otherwise there is ALOT of foot pedal bleeding that wont work as the air gets trapped here and is really hard to shift. I found that pumping the foot pedal does hardly a thing if this area is air locked. A suction machine bleeder was all that would shift it. This diagram helped me ... im not sure exactly where i found it but it helped alot with the directions of the various seals. Some of the seal kits come with two different sizes of seals and the master cylinder i have uses the small ring ones (inner)and the bigger directional seals (outer). One set of seals i had all the seals were the same bigger size. This kit was not successful in my first rebuild. My master cylinder had a switch at the front but some do not and just have a blanking nut. The springs need to be the right way round and the longer one in the middle. The first rebuild on the master cylinder was spoilt as the screw in the fluid container was very slightly too long (only half a mm maybe) and it was probably over tightened after nearly fifty years of use. It fouled the seal and damaged it instead of stopping the piston moving too far. Our friends in Norfolk were very helpful and they supplied a kit to convert a lefthand mastercylinder to fit a righthand car. ( an adapter plate and pushrod extension)
    I could not find anywhere for love or money a good righthand mastercylinder and was only able to get an italian lefthand drive one...hence the conversion.


    just some of my experiences which hopefully may help someone else. cheers L
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails fulvia mastercylinder diagram.jpg  
    series 1 1200 fulvia coupe rolling restoration
    series 1 1300 fulvia coupe rallye definitely in bits

  3. #3
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    Re: Fulvia S1 master cylinder

    interestingly my master cylinder came apart with the springs the other way round(shorter stronger spring in middle)

    Quote Originally Posted by lukestew View Post
    thank you for this.

    Just thought i would add some info that ive learnt with my series 1 ....Ive also found that brake grease doesnt help much and clogs up the very small holes in the piston ends. These holes need to be clear so the fluid can flow from collection part of the piston into the pressure part. (Not sure exactly how else to describe these areas) the fluid needs to be able to flow towards the front otherwise there is ALOT of foot pedal bleeding that wont work as the air gets trapped here and is really hard to shift. I found that pumping the foot pedal does hardly a thing if this area is air locked. A suction machine bleeder was all that would shift it. This diagram helped me ... im not sure exactly where i found it but it helped alot with the directions of the various seals. Some of the seal kits come with two different sizes of seals and the master cylinder i have uses the small ring ones (inner)and the bigger directional seals (outer). One set of seals i had all the seals were the same bigger size. This kit was not successful in my first rebuild. My master cylinder had a switch at the front but some do not and just have a blanking nut. The springs need to be the right way round and the longer one in the middle. The first rebuild on the master cylinder was spoilt as the screw in the fluid container was very slightly too long (only half a mm maybe) and it was probably over tightened after nearly fifty years of use. It fouled the seal and damaged it instead of stopping the piston moving too far. Our friends in Norfolk were very helpful and they supplied a kit to convert a lefthand mastercylinder to fit a righthand car. ( an adapter plate and pushrod extension)
    I could not find anywhere for love or money a good righthand mastercylinder and was only able to get an italian lefthand drive one...hence the conversion.


    just some of my experiences which hopefully may help someone else. cheers L
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mastercyl.JPG  

  4. #4
    Master Lancista lukestew's Avatar
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    Re: Fulvia S1 master cylinder

    just to add to my series 1 discoveries......
    i found that there are 18mm and 19mm bore sizes for the series 1 dunlop mastercylinder so you have to be careful which seals you order if you are to refurbish one. I think (though may be wrong) the 19mm is for the slightly later series 1 that did have a servo. Then the later series 2 etc had a 21mm and a servo. (happy to be corrected on this)
    Franco1966 seems like your springs are the otherway round to the way mine were set up ....but hey if it works like that ...Your photo does show quite well that the seals on the piston are one flatter one and one with a sort of flange to it. one to collect and the other to push the fluid. The second piston is not in the photo.....maybe it flew across the workshop and refused to be found for ages....as mine did on one occasion!!! plenty of scrabbling about on hands and knees and a few expletives and even more time cleaning it all again.

    Well i hope this is useful to someone

    cheers L
    series 1 1200 fulvia coupe rolling restoration
    series 1 1300 fulvia coupe rallye definitely in bits

  5. #5
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    Re: Fulvia S1 master cylinder

    Sorry to hijack this thread but I also have a series 1 with master cylinder trouble, however I think mine is beyond repair. I do however have a couple of 21mm ones off a series 2/3, are these compatible?

  6. #6
    Master Lancista lukestew's Avatar
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    Re: Fulvia S1 master cylinder

    im fairly sure that they are not compatible as they are designed to work with the servo. A series one 18mm mastercylinder has no servo.
    series 1 1200 fulvia coupe rolling restoration
    series 1 1300 fulvia coupe rallye definitely in bits

  7. #7
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    Re: Fulvia S1 master cylinder

    I've kinda figured as much, I've separated the servo from one but it doesn't seem to me that it'll fit. I'll have to go out over the weekend and see if it will work.

  8. #8
    Legendary Lancista lancialulu's Avatar
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    Re: Fulvia S1 master cylinder

    Thought 21 mm were for the Girling Lockheed brakes with duplex ciruit ant larger front 4 pot calipers so need more fluid volume.

  9. #9
    Master Lancista lukestew's Avatar
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    Re: Fulvia S1 master cylinder

    Quote Originally Posted by lancialulu View Post
    Thought 21 mm were for the Girling Lockheed brakes with duplex ciruit ant larger front 4 pot calipers so need more fluid volume.

    yes im sure 21mm was the Girling duplex circuit. Which will definitely be different.
    series 1 1200 fulvia coupe rolling restoration
    series 1 1300 fulvia coupe rallye definitely in bits

  10. #10
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    Re: Fulvia S1 master cylinder

    Had a look today and it's a non runner so stripped down the original to find one of the Pistons broken in it. I'll have to go about getting it repaired it seems because RHD 19mm master cylinders seem to be a little hard to find.

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