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  1. #11
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    Re: Leaky brake connections

    Good news and not-so-good. First the good: The leaky crush washer problem appears to be solved. I measured the new hose fitting height and it’s identical to the original, so that wasn’t the problem. What else could prevent the hose fitting from sitting down tight on the washer? The locating pins on the caliper looked taller than the hole in the hose fitting, so I filed about a millimeter off all the locating pins. I torqued the banjo bolts to 200 in-lbs. That seems to have solved the problem. I say “seems to” because of the not-so-good part. After bleeding all the circuits with no more visible air bubbles, the brake pedal still goes to the floor, so I’m not building up the max pressure to adequately test the crush washer seal. Why is my brake pedal going all the way to the floor? In the 40+ years I’ve owned the car, I’ve never bled the system starting with an empty MC. I’ve always done work on the calipers, never the MC. Is there something I’m missing?

  2. #12
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    Re: Leaky brake connections

    Did you bench bleed the MC before install? Or at least fill it with fluid first?
    And is it still leaking at or near all the MC hose fittings?

  3. #13
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    Re: Leaky brake connections

    No I didn’t - first time working on the MC, should have looked it up before. But it primed OK and is pushing fluid through all the lines. I guess there is still air inside the MC chambers. If I use a syringe to push fluid through a front caliper bleeder, will that purge air from the MC into the reservoir? Or push a caliper piston back into the bore to do the same thing? The MC hose fittings seem to be OK now.

  4. #14
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    Re: Leaky brake connections

    At least if it's not leaking then you have a chance to get all the air out and you're just down to bleeding. It's a pain and it's hard to get all the air out. May take a couple rounds. One thing that can help is to get each thing filled with fluid as you put it together and reduce the amount of air in there that you have to get out. Stopping the leaks also means all those joints aren't drawing more air in. Now that you're bleeding, there are many methods and everybody has their preference. There are some that force fluid back towards the MC. I am suspicious of those since it goes against the normal flow of the system and can stress the MC. I like to use one of those Motive bleeders and just use it to pressurize the reservoir. You want the import one;
    <https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/import-power-bleeder-kits>

    There are also vacuum pump bleeders that attach to the caliper bleeder like the mityvac.
    <https://www.amazon.com/MV8000-Automotive-Tune-up-Brake-Bleeding/dp/B00265M9SS?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5>

    There are 'speedbleeders' that replace the bleed nipple but I don't know if they truly replace all other methods. It might be this one: <http://www.showmetheparts.com/Speedbleeder/>


    The first two you might find at a local parts outfit, saving waiting for mail order. Hopefully that will get you started. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

    Dave

  5. #15
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    Re: Leaky brake connections

    Yes, I’ve seen the Motive pressure bleeder and am considering getting it, but I’m uncertain about the fluid reservoir being able to hold pressure due to the two float assemblies. Have you successfully pressure bleeded a Beta Coupe fluid reservoir that has these float assemblies?

  6. #16
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    Re: Leaky brake connections

    The brakes are now working. I used a syringe to push brake fluid through a front caliper bleeder screw that purged any air inside the MC back up into the fluid reservoir. In order to prevent fluid from leaking out the bleeder screw threads, I swapped the bleeder screw with one that I modified (I drilled a hole in the bottom and blocked the side hole). That allowed me to tighten the bleeder screw and pressurize the lines without any leakage at the bleeder screw. It worked fine without the need to pump the brakes and stress the MC seals. Thanks all for your interest and help.

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