Fulviasport 1.3S 2.S drivetrain questions and issues

[Marnix]

Hi Tim. I am glad you finally recognize those weird imperial measures are "not standard". Just when I came to re-conceal myself that imperial sizes are also to be considered standard measures.

I had no trouble at all getting them from a local store 15 years ago. Brought the old in, they ordered them, and I got them a week or two later.

I looked them up, and this is what I have:

CR Seals (SKF) 11067

Nitrile Oil Seal - CRW1 Design, Single Lip with Spring, 1.1250 in Shaft, 1.5610 in OD, 0.2500 in Width, Nitrile, CRW1

They DO have a spring in it. I installed it 15 years ago, and didn't have any leak since.

Not sure about availability now 15 years later.

Getting the original Nadella needle roller bearings that were damaged by an idiot, that was a different story altogether. Spend half a year looking for them 15 years ago. Most probably are unobtainable now.

[geert]

Connection rod 180° inverted ?

, Think you're right.

Will be an easy fix.
(inner part close to the motor )

not the best picture ( and very messy garage ), but gives you a suggestion about 'the other way around' comparing to your picture. (How long drove the car that way ? )

groeten, Geert.

[Akonaut]

, Think you're right.

Will be an easy fix.
(inner part close to the motor )

not the best picture ( and very messy garage ), but gives you a suggestion about 'the other way around' comparing to your picture. (How long drove the car that way ? )

groeten, Geert.

The whole thing throws a new light on the origin of my repair session.

Every now and then second gear jumped out . A reproducable situation could not be identified. Sometimes it happened when running downhill idling or with low gas another time when accelerating. My conclusion was, that the fork might be worn and gear would not be locked properly.

Second the engine/gearbox mounting appeared too soft, allowing quite heavy kicks of the gearlever. Wanted to cover it all in one, new rubbers all around and gearbox rebuild.

Now I suspect, that perhaps the gearbox is ok, but the reversed connection rod and relative movements of the drivetrain kicked the gear out in the literal sense.

thanks for the helpful comments so far, will keep you updated.

[lancialulu]

CR Seals (SKF) 11067

Nitrile Oil Seal - CRW1 Design, Single Lip with Spring, 1.1250 in Shaft, 1.5610 in OD, 0.2500 in Width, Nitrile, CRW1

.

I wish I had know about this spec before..... What came out of the HF Box was single lip very thin without spring (I have it somewhere as a momento). the seal from Omicron had a spring....

I find these seals are still available and from Simply Bearings

https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Se...ex.html?page=6

Not sure if they will be available after Brexit! (but they are available in USA)

[geert]

The whole thing throws a new light on the origin of my repair session.
Now I suspect, that perhaps the gearbox is ok, but the reversed connection rod and relative movements of the drivetrain kicked the gear out in the literal sense.

thanks for the helpful comments so far, will keep you updated.

sometimes, but not very often, live is great and easy
( but don't count too much on it ;-) )

groeten, Geert.

[kev1_3s]

Steering bar is 100% the wrong way around and needs to be changed before you drive it again, a friend of mine broke a 4 speed box for that very reason.

[Akonaut]

Turned the steering bar and gained just the space needed.




Found an original seal kit for the Gemmer-France steering box. The original dimensions are given on the seals, very close to the imperial seals that had been talked about before.



For the removal of the trackrod ends I am using the shown puller. In this cramped situation it handles a little bit better than the one made out of one piece.



As expected the lever did not want to come off. Even after applying some heat it stuck. Put the hot part in the water and warmed it again afterwards. It came off quite easy then.

All parts are in good shape (with exception of the seals)



Hubert

[bmarler]

great pictures hubert,
i use that same tool for tie rod ends. it's the best i have found for getting them apart without destroying the boots.
i haven't seen the innards of the steering box before. i wonder if there are many differences between series 2 vs series 1? i hear there is a difference in bushing material, but is there anything else?
or is it the idler box i'm thinking of...

[lancialulu]

great pictures hubert,
i use that same tool for tie rod ends. it's the best i have found for getting them apart without destroying the boots.
i haven't seen the innards of the steering box before. i wonder if there are many differences between series 2 vs series 1? i hear there is a difference in bushing material, but is there anything else?
or is it the idler box i'm thinking of...

Idler bushing - plastic S2/3 bronze or somesuch S1. All the Gemmer boxes are essentially all the same design - only differing in ratio and Lhd v Rhd.

I took an HF box to bits recently as it had run out of center adjustment. No sign of wear or metal fatigue so I am perplexed. Fitted my spare and all is well with centre adjustment and steering has returned to how I remember.

[bmarler]

Idler bushing - plastic S2/3 bronze or somesuch S1. All the Gemmer boxes are essentially all the same design - only differing in ratio and Lhd v Rhd.

I took an HF box to bits recently as it had run out of center adjustment. No sign of wear or metal fatigue so I am perplexed. Fitted my spare and all is well with centre adjustment and steering has returned to how I remember.

such a simple design, with no sign of wear i'd be perplexed too. where does the adjustment screw take up the slack in the assembly?