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Thread: clunking conundrum

  1. #21
    Legendary Lancista lancialulu's Avatar
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    Re: clunking conundrum

    The S2 Front Hub nut tool is 8051166. S1 is 88051161

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    Re: clunking conundrum

    I swapped out driveshafts on series 1 by undoing hub nut and the bolts around the gearbox flange, it was a tedious job but once all bolts were out the shaft passed through the subframe towers easily enough.

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    Senior Lancista simon down's Avatar
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    Re: clunking conundrum

    Today Pat (Fen Fulvia) and I removed the drive shafts from my spares subframe. The famed tightness of the lock nuts and hub nuts wasn't apparent in this case. They came off with scary ease.
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    The drive shafts came out easily too and have cleaned up well. I need to clean them very thoroughly before repacking with grease. Will also paint the shafts.
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    Then I'll need to repeat the removal procedure with the worn ones on the car. I will then compare the worn and 'new' CV joints. I have no idea of the condition of the 'new' ones, except that visually they look good.

    Just out of interest, how do you get the outer joints off the shaft? I don't actually need to do this but it would help with cleaning.

    I'll let you know how I get on.

  4. #24
    Legendary Lancista lancialulu's Avatar
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    Re: clunking conundrum

    Quote Originally Posted by simon down View Post
    Just out of interest, how do you get the outer joints off the shaft? I don't actually need to do this but it would help with cleaning.

    I'll let you know how I get on.
    you put the shaft in a strong vice and whack it off with a heavy copper mallet. If it comes of easily the the spring circlip on the end of the shaft its elf is missing or broken these need to be in place. To put the out cv joint/stub axle back on the shaft the 4mm "spacer you should have found when the end was off is used to slide partially over the wire circlip before trying to clout the joint back on. It may take several (many goes) and the air will turn blue.....

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    Senior Lancista simon down's Avatar
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    Re: clunking conundrum

    Hello

    I have now more or less cleaned and sorted the spare CV joints and shafts. Today I removed one of the suspect shafts/CV joints on the car. This came off easily using the hub tool and a length of scaffolding. They were on tight, but not crazy tight. I then knocked the shaft out with a copper hammer with the hub tool bolt screwed in and a block of wood. I had to undo the shock absorber to get space, but as you can see below it came out. The shafts are different diameters, which I assume is a difference between 1966 1216cc and a later S1 (?). The CV joints both ends are identical. I haven't inspected the removed original shaft for wear yet.

    A new issue has now emerged. With the outer CV joint now out unfortunately I can now feel very significant play in the bearing such that the brake disc/hub moves a lot: around 5mm at the edge of the brake disc! There is obvious play in the bearing too. So hubs will need to come off.

    There was no noticeable wobble on the wheel before I took the drive shafts/outer CV joint off. So presumably the hub tightening nuts were masking this. Here's my question. Is the clunking noise that I am looking to solve likely to be movement in the bearing, instead of worn CV joints?

    Any thoughts would be very welcome

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    Re: clunking conundrum

    In my experience this is fairly normal, when tightening I replaced a bearing recently it wasn't until I had the joint properly torqued up that everything came togeather.

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    Legendary Lancista Marnix's Avatar
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    Re: clunking conundrum

    I am not sure from description if you actually released pressure on the bearing (especially inner part). The bearing is actually in two halves that need to be pressed (heavily actually) together. If you remove the inner locknut, the play may well be quite normal.
    Lancia Fulvia 2C 1964
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    Senior Lancista simon down's Avatar
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    Re: clunking conundrum

    Ok. All I have done is removed the outer CV joint/stub axle (its the same thing, right) by undoing the two lock nuts (with washer/pin sandwich). ie removed the whole drive shaft assembly

    So both of you seem to be suggesting this is normal to have a hub/brake disc wobbling after removing this.

  9. #29
    Legendary Lancista lancialulu's Avatar
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    Re: clunking conundrum

    It is normal for the bearing to have play when not torqued up. I f there was no play before you do not need to worry about the bearing. I think thinner shafts were S2 but they would have a different in board end. Have you taken the shaft right out??

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    Re: clunking conundrum

    Quote Originally Posted by lancialulu View Post
    It is normal for the bearing to have play when not torqued up. I f there was no play before you do not need to worry about the bearing. . . . .
    That´s right!
    Flaminia GT 3C, Flaminia Convertibile 3C, Flaminia Coupé-project-, Flavia Convertibile 1.8, Fulvia Sport 1.3S, A112 Abarth 70HP, Mercedes Benz Unimog U406

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