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Thread: First Startup

  1. #11
    Master Lancista Taddraughn's Avatar
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    Re: First Startup

    Typically here in the US, unless otherwise stated you can expect gas to contain up to 10% ethanol. There are plenty of places that sell non ethanol gas, but most around me only offer 87 octane ethanol free gas. Only a few places near me offer 91 and 93 octane non-ethanol gas (and it sells for a premium)

  2. #12
    Active Lancista Castagnero's Avatar
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    Re: First Startup

    Quote Originally Posted by Krafty View Post
    Many thanks, Gents,

    I do intend to acquire a workshop manual and other technical information. I've just been waiting for my car. If it went down in the Atlantic, the workshop manual wouldn't be too much help. My car is a 1.3 Rallye, then, there was the 1.3S and I've wondered the difference. Is it a few more ponies or is there something more? There isn't too much information out there about the subtle differences among the Fulvias. I know I'll have many more questions. It's just about 24 more hours before my car is scheduled to arrive. I've been waiting six weeks. It'll be nice to enjoy my car instead of just wiring money all around the globe.

    Thanks again,

    Michael
    • The bore is different from the 1231cc 75mm. 1298cc 77mm.


    • Original different carburettor: Solex C35 PHH7.


    • It must have the alu panels as far as I know.


    • Chrome rings at the rims.

    And apart from the badges I dont know any other differences... from the 1.2?!

    I made a datasheet in doc format for my 1231cc Coupé, maybe I will share it.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Castagnero; 11th July 2018 at 05:21 AM.

  3. #13
    Legendary Lancista Marnix's Avatar
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    Re: First Startup

    Could be right. The 95 contained some ethanol before, yes. But is now mostly being replaced with 10% Ethanol. It is possible the 98 contained ethanol already for some time. I have been driving on 5% ethanol 95 for some time, and personally I didn't get any problems. But I drive my Fulvia very regularly, and for quite some km (about 10000 km yearly). It may be a problem when the car is stored for longer periods of time.

    I am not sure it is really a problem, the ethanol. There are all kinds of opinions going around. I recall we had the same kind of doubts when leaded fuel became unavailable ( in Europe). It took a while to get confirmed the Fulvia could deal with unleaded alright.

    One of the unexpected things I learned is that ethanol attacks aluminium.
    Lancia Fulvia 2C 1964
    Lancia Fulvia Coupe Rallye 1,3 1968
    Porsche 924 1979
    Alfa Romeo 33 1.4IE 1993

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    Legendary Lancista fay66's Avatar
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    Re: First Startup

    Michael,
    I used to have a 1969 1.3 Rallye, the most easy thing to spot the difference is that the Rallye has fixed door quarterlights while the S has opening quarterlights.
    The S also has an oil cooler, and servo assisted brakes.
    I think I have a brochure so I'll have a look and see what else.
    Brian

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    Re: First Startup

    Michael - congratulations on the purchase - good to see another Fulvia away from the coasts (I'm in St. Louis). If the car won't start right away don't worry - sometimes when they've sat for a few days it takes 10-20 sec or so of cranking to fill the carbs again. Probably not an issue as they had to start it to get it on the truck.

    Also, best US parts supply are Mike Kristick (no website but ridiculously quick service) and Adan at LaLancia.com

    Best of luck -

    -Mike

  6. #16
    Active Lancista Castagnero's Avatar
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    Re: First Startup

    Quote Originally Posted by fay66 View Post
    Michael,
    I used to have a 1969 1.3 Rallye, the most easy thing to spot the difference is that the Rallye has fixed door quarterlights while the S has opening quarterlights.
    The S also has an oil cooler, and servo assisted brakes.
    I think I have a brochure so I'll have a look and see what else.
    Brian
    The S has also different hub caps with the blue Lancia badge?!

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    Re: First Startup

    Quote Originally Posted by fay66 View Post
    Hi Michael,
    Excellent advice from Marnix as ever, however one point regarding light switch position.
    On the series 1 when you pull it out to to first position it will bring on sidelights and dipped headlights, but if you push the indicator/headlight dip stalk on the steering column forward, this will actually turn the headlights out, leaving you with only the sidelights, a bit frightening if you happen to be enjoying the Fulvia's performance at the time down a country lane������ when all the light disappears!
    When the switch is turned and pulled to the second position, the same stalk operates the main/dip positions, main beams indicated by a blue light.
    Brian
    While seemingly odd to us today, it makes sense if seen in context. The lights are normally (for us) in the second position, and then the whole system operates normally (per our standards).

    The first position is different, and is for Italian urban driving, where the choices (at the time) were either regular lights on, or main beams off and running lights only (in major cities). That’s why the quick “lights off “ position of the wand.

    Thinking about this a bit further, many modern light switches have some minor settings that approximate this same sensibility. It’s just that in the US, we typically run with lights on.

  8. #18
    Legendary Lancista fay66's Avatar
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    Re: First Startup

    Quote Originally Posted by Castagnero View Post
    The S has also different hub caps with the blue Lancia badge?!

    Michael,
    No, they were standard with the trim rings on the 1.3 Rallye Coupe.
    Reading a road test today it seems the engine produced a couple of extra horses and the torque was slightly increased, along with the Servo and the oil cooler, and the opening front 1/4 lights, I think that's about it.
    I did have a ride in a friends 1.3s prior to buying my Rallye, and I must say I can't I remember there being a lot of difference in the performance between them.
    My 2c has the same Dunlop Brakes as the S but minus the servo, and I've never found a crying need for a servo, as my brakes without a servo, while requiring a harder shove, have never been a problem, including driving over the Alps or the Pyrenees, or in normal driving at 70 mph, besides which I prefer the instant pedal response.
    The Dunlop brakes are very good, but on no account neglect the maintenance to them, particularly the rear adjusting mechanism for the handbrake, or you will be into serious problems if it seizes up, a good clean and light lubrication once a year is a must.
    the long gear lever for the 4 speed gearbox is a delight to use, as is the Rallye overall, I loved mine.
    Photo from about 1998 of myself and my Rallye, and one of the electric fuel pump fitted by the tank, only use as a priming pump for the carburettors, or as a back up if ever necessary for the mechanical pump.
    I have a switch with a light that I turn on until the pump stops clicking, indicating the carburettors are primed, the pump is then turned off, this saves all the churning over on the starter which I find offends my mechanical sensibilities

    Sorry pump picture is not very good and up the wrong way.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails img356.jpg   DSCF0007 copy Reduced.jpg  

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    Legendary Lancista Marnix's Avatar
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    Re: First Startup

    For the insiders: the torque curve of the 1.3S is steeper. It produce quite more torque than the 1.3 at high revs, but actually, at low revs, slightly less than the 1.3.

    Lancia probably thought they could get away with it, in view of the few extra BHP they got from the 1.3S engine.
    Lancia Fulvia 2C 1964
    Lancia Fulvia Coupe Rallye 1,3 1968
    Porsche 924 1979
    Alfa Romeo 33 1.4IE 1993

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    Re: First Startup

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    you should know if your car has the standard fuel pump or electric. if it's the standard mechanical pump be aware it can take some time cranking the engine to fill the carburetor bowls. unlike marnix, i have to use the choke to get fire. i'm almost ready to start up with revised carbs though, and that might change. all cars have a sweet spot for starting procedure, you'll have to find yours.
    i have electric pump, so my routine goes like this.
    key on for maybe 5 seconds
    pump throttle fully twice
    choke on and crank (it's normal to hear a hissing sound with the choke on)
    choke off immediately upon startup
    work the throttle to keep engine running
    after a very brief warm up choke is no longer needed to start
    Thats exactly my start up procedure, if I don't pump the throttle it'll take about 5-10 seconds of cranking to start.

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