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  1. #721
    Senior Lancista Taddraughn's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Well no real updates for the weekend since I had to work. I only managed to get down and work on the car for a few hours Sunday. It was enough time to start stripping the engine bay, strip underneath one sill to bare metal, and try out a small repair on the wheel arch.

    I forgot to take photos, but on the wheel arch, I sanded down where there was a bubble and found that the paint was delaminated, but also the filler underneath had a small crack in that location. I took it down to bare metal, and mixed and applied some 3M filler to the area and block sanded it with these little foam blocks I got that match the curved profile pretty well. I had to apply filler a couple times because I made some low spots on accident. I think I'm starting to get the hang of block sanding now. I went from 80 up to 320 on the filler and then when satisfied with the shape and smoothness I sprayed some epoxy primer onto the repair area, using rolled paper to prevent sharp paint lines. The repair area quickly becomes much bigger than the damaged area, but I guess that's the nature of block sanding and trying to make transitions to existing paint.

    I'll add some pictures of that when I do the rest of the arch repairs next weekend.

    Here's a photo of the engine bay partially stripped. Going to take a lot of work to get it completely stripped and ready. I put some wd-40 on the bare metal in the meantime.



    In other news, my correct sized tires came in. I went with the 145 Pirellis and these things look TINY


  2. #722
    Master Lancista boulderz's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Taddraughn View Post

    The steering idler, from when I had such a hard time removing the arm, has some damaged threads at it's tip. I'm assuming maybe a die is the correct way to fix this?
    I've run into this problem as well - in trying to remove the arm the end of the idler shaft gets mushroomed (that's what happened to mine) and now can't get the nut on. I haven't fixed it yet but I'm guessing maybe a machine shop can repair as the dye would be huge and not likely something most have. Let me know how you make out.

  3. #723
    Senior Lancista Taddraughn's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by boulderz View Post
    I've run into this problem as well - in trying to remove the arm the end of the idler shaft gets mushroomed (that's what happened to mine) and now can't get the nut on. I haven't fixed it yet but I'm guessing maybe a machine shop can repair as the dye would be huge and not likely something most have. Let me know how you make out.
    I looked up the dies and they are pretty expensive so instead I'm going to try cutting a nut in half (M22 x 1.5 I think Just ordered a couple from mcmastercarr this morning).

    After cutting in half I'm going to clamp the two halves onto a good portion of the thread and try to work it off/ shape the deformed parts back. If needed I'll Tig the halves together so they cant come off/ if the clamps prove not to be enough. I also don't want to score the shaft so I may need to use another nut tigged together to put a wrench on and hold the shaft from turning. I'll let you know how it goes; should have the nuts in the next couple days

  4. #724
    Senior Lancista Taddraughn's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by boulderz View Post
    I've run into this problem as well - in trying to remove the arm the end of the idler shaft gets mushroomed (that's what happened to mine) and now can't get the nut on. I haven't fixed it yet but I'm guessing maybe a machine shop can repair as the dye would be huge and not likely something most have. Let me know how you make out.
    Update on the idler arm.. The split nut thing worked to an extent, but not enough to make the original nut work again. After cutting in half (both to half height and in half in the other direction) I was able to fit the two halves onto the good threads and slip a socket over and work it off. This straightened all the threads that were wavy and smashed together, but the old nut still wont go on. I think I'll either have to get a thread file or die to finish it off and get it working again.

  5. #725
    Senior Lancista Taddraughn's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Some progress from the paint front... First of all I just want to say I no longer wonder why it costs so much to get a high quality paint job. I'm only working on relatively small areas and the amount of time all of this takes is IMMENSE. Maybe its because I'm new to this type of work, but it takes me a long time to get all the pores in the filler gone/filled. Maybe I need some finishing glaze or putty to take care of the small pinholes.

    Anyway, started off by testing the base coat on my hood. I don't want to do all this work and then find out the paint is just going to wrinkle on me. I sanded a spot of the hood with some 200 or 300 don't really remember exactly... taped off a square and shot two coats of color on it. No wrinkling apparent so that's a good sign. I didn't test the clear coat, but I'm assuming it will be fine since the solvents in the BC should be hotter than the the ones in the CC. In addition, the paint seems to be a very close match. After removing the tape a little later after it had dried a bit, it is a hair darker, but I'm thinking it will blend fine.



    I went ahead and removed everything from the engine bay and started to sand down some more.. Still not done sanding in the engine bay but getting closer.



    This weekend I worked mainly on the passenger side sill and the drivers side rear arch because they needed to most work. I stripped to bare metal in the areas where the paint had bubbled, like with the last bubble a few of these spots also had cracked filler in that area. I then applied new filler, block sanded with 80, 180, 320, and then applied an epoxy primer to seal the filler and keep it from absorbing moisture for the time being. I used hard tape lines because I'm going to block the epoxy and apply a 2k primer over it anyway so I didn't see a point in rolling the edges this time.

    On the arch I did not apply epoxy underneath the filler, but I did on the sill. I sprayed the entire underside of the sill with the epoxy primer and then applied the filler as the epoxy was in its recoat window, but dry enough to touch. I then applied filler and sanded down the bottom of the sill.. Took several applications before I was happy with both of the radii on the bottom. Probably spent too much time trying to making it perfect since you literally cannot see it when the car is on the ground. Then sealed it with the epoxy primer when done. The last two pictures below show it taped up for the epoxy, but I didn't take pictures after spraying. I'd been there all day and was just ready to leave (also my fiance had a pizza waiting for me). Maybe with another weekend of hard work it will be ready for the guy to spray BC/CC on it, but still tons to be done before it's ready for that.









  6. #726
    Legendary Lancista bmarler's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    good work as usual austin,
    couple of small things. glazing putty: yes. get some icing or dolphin glaze or similar to fill pin holes and take care of scratch marks before priming. if you get a sag in the paint it will come in handy for fixing that too. if it happens i'll give you some advice how to deal with that.
    don't sand too far with the heavier grits, leave room for the lighter ones or you'll remove too much material. i go 80-180-220-glaze-180-220-400 primer. sometimes skip the 120 after glaze, depending...
    remove all the paint from the repair area. take it to metal past the repair area by a few inches or to a body line. all your fillers should go on either metal or epoxy. the overlap onto the painted area happens at the primer stage.
    almost there buddy, eye on the prize right?
    Last edited by bmarler; 6th August 2019 at 07:50 AM.
    bmarler/
    1967 fulvia sport zagato
    1961 appia vignale convert.

  7. #727
    Senior Lancista Taddraughn's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    good work as usual austin,
    couple of small things. glazing putty: yes. get some icing or dolphin glaze or similar to fill pin holes and take care of scratch marks before priming. if you get a sag in the paint it will come in handy for fixing that too. if it happens i'll give you some advice how to deal with that.
    don't sand too far with the heavier grits, leave room for the lighter ones or you'll remove too much material. i go 80-120-220-glaze-120-220-400 primer. sometimes skip the 120 after glaze, depending...
    remove all the paint from the repair area. take it to metal past the repair area by a few inches or to a body line. all your fillers should go on either metal or epoxy. the overlap onto the painted area happens at the primer stage.
    almost there buddy, eye on the prize right?
    Thanks for the tips Brian!

    I think going too far with the 80 was probably the issue. The 180 still removes a lot of material so I found myself needed to add more filler to bring it back up a little.

    I'll pick up some dolphin glaze, it looks like pretty good stuff. I think some of my filler overlapped old filler a little past where i went to bare metal, but it seems like most of it blocked off in those areas.

    Feeling a little burnt out with this paint stuff but just going to keep pushing through it. I know I'll feel better about it when I get it done. Trying to stay focused on getting it to that show..

  8. #728
    Master Lancista Professorgearhead's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    We're are all cheering for you!
    Thor Frohn-Nielsen
    '72 Lancia Fulvia 1600

  9. #729
    Legendary Lancista bmarler's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    sanding seems to last forever. i've been sanding for years on my appia. i finally decided not to put a goal on my projects time to completion as it just makes me compromise my method. but since you do have a goal to hit, the only way to make it is to put in the hours. a pro body man can calculate the hours easily, but noobs always make mistakes when sanding and need to use more product. i've been doing body and paint on and off since 1980 and still consider myself a noob...so, more sanding...
    bmarler/
    1967 fulvia sport zagato
    1961 appia vignale convert.

  10. #730
    Senior Lancista Taddraughn's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Professorgearhead View Post
    We're are all cheering for you!
    Thanks Thor! It helps to know I have people all over North America and beyond watching my progress and cheering me on.

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    sanding seems to last forever. i've been sanding for years on my appia. i finally decided not to put a goal on my projects time to completion as it just makes me compromise my method. but since you do have a goal to hit, the only way to make it is to put in the hours. a pro body man can calculate the hours easily, but noobs always make mistakes when sanding and need to use more product. i've been doing body and paint on and off since 1980 and still consider myself a noob...so, more sanding...
    I have a big spreadsheet with every task (that I can think of; sure I'm forgetting something) needed to get the car back on the road. Looking at the sheet.. Time is beginning to feel short and I think I'll probably have to start working longer hours on the weekends. I have 9 weekends left to work and my spreadsheet says I have ~96 hours worth the work to complete the car. That seems fine since I usually work 16 hours a weekend but my spreadsheet is often wrong.

    I did add a lot of hours for assembly that might not be needed though.. For example I gave myself 6 hours for assembly of the rear suspension alone

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