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  1. #701
    Senior Lancista Taddraughn's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    it's likely that when your car was re-sprayed it was done in acrylic enamel. the opportunity for lifting at the edges of the repair would be your biggest concern as the sanded area will go clear through to metal and expose all the layers of paint in between. those layers are of unknown material. there's a couple of ways to handle that. you can seal the repair areas with epoxy sealer then do your blend over that. or, some people dust a little clear over the repair to seal it, and then do the blend. i prefer the epoxy method as it stabilizes the repair area for further top coats. wet sand with p600 before shooting solid color, p800 for metallic.
    single stage isn't too tough to do a blend repair if the color is solid. metallic is a bit tougher. bc/cc is definitely the easiest to blend and will last longer than single stage.
    I'll definitely look into the sealer/ask the guy helping me out about it. Would the procedure be: sand needed areas to bare metal, apply filler where needed, sand filler and feather sanding out into painted areas, then apply the epoxy sealer before priming the fillered/sanded area? or prime first then apply the sealant?

    Are there any tests I can do on the hood to see if I'll have problems with the paint lifting? My Grandfather and uncle are working on getting one of my two hoods straight this weekend so hopefully I'll have both of the hoods back soon. Could I sand a small area on the hood and spray it with the BC to see if it will lift? And if so will it be apparent that it will lift fairly quickly after spraying? or is this something that would occur over time after the repair is done?

  2. #702
    Legendary Lancista bmarler's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    like anything there more than one way to do it. my preference:
    sand to metal, all areas needing repair. feather out to solid paint area. be sure to reduce the grit as you get out into solid paint.
    epoxy coat the metal, overlap onto sanded paint area a little.
    do the filler work while still in the recoat window of the epoxy.
    if you exceed the recoat window of the epoxy just scuff it and add another coat before 2k primer. (i reduce the epoxy to act as sealer in this case.)
    2k urethane primer over the filler/epoxy and out near the edge of the sanded area. (be sure to mask the rest of the car and use either transition tape or folded tape to reduce the hard edge.
    block out the primer (be sure to use guide coat during the whole filler/ blocking process)
    top coat

    this isn't really an autobody type forum, so if you want more detail just send an email. i'll be happy to help. or, just check with your guy, he probably has an established procedure already.
    bmarler/
    1967 fulvia sport zagato
    1961 appia vignale convert.

  3. #703
    Legendary Lancista bmarler's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    oh yeah, the rest of the question.
    if the paints going to lift, it will do it pretty quick. usually right away. if you get it to cover without lifting you're usually home free. some guys think my method is more than needed but i don't do production work so i don't care how long it takes.
    bmarler/
    1967 fulvia sport zagato
    1961 appia vignale convert.

  4. #704
    Senior Lancista Taddraughn's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    like anything there more than one way to do it. my preference:
    sand to metal, all areas needing repair. feather out to solid paint area. be sure to reduce the grit as you get out into solid paint.
    epoxy coat the metal, overlap onto sanded paint area a little.
    do the filler work while still in the recoat window of the epoxy.
    if you exceed the recoat window of the epoxy just scuff it and add another coat before 2k primer. (i reduce the epoxy to act as sealer in this case.)
    2k urethane primer over the filler/epoxy and out near the edge of the sanded area. (be sure to mask the rest of the car and use either transition tape or folded tape to reduce the hard edge.
    block out the primer (be sure to use guide coat during the whole filler/ blocking process)
    top coat

    this isn't really an autobody type forum, so if you want more detail just send an email. i'll be happy to help. or, just check with your guy, he probably has an established procedure already.
    Thanks for this info Brian! I'll probably send you an email once i get closer to applying filler and primer. I'll give my guy call to see if he can clarify his exact intended procedure. He told me to give him a call and he would run over to our shop when I got it sanded and filled and he would guide me through prepping everything and setting up so that we could spray everything that needs it at once.

  5. #705
    Senior Lancista Taddraughn's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    oh yeah, the rest of the question.
    if the paints going to lift, it will do it pretty quick. usually right away. if you get it to cover without lifting you're usually home free. some guys think my method is more than needed but i don't do production work so i don't care how long it takes.
    Gotcha. I'm definitely going to test sans sealer on the hood to see what happens. I'm thinking it's more likely my uncle can straighten the less dented hood but maybe I'm wrong. He's been doing body work his whole life so he may surprise me

  6. #706
    Master Lancista GlynW's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by lancialulu View Post
    Interesting using aluminium tubing?! Isnt it a bit frigile and easily crushed? And also will corrode where it meets steel. No for me carrying your best 99 octane....
    I’m with Tim on this. There are steel clips on the body that the fuel pipe should be held by and these will cause corrosion of an aluminium pipe especially if it sees salt from winter roads. I would also worry about chafing. The aluminium pipe will wear before steel. You could wrap a piece of rubber around the pipe at the contact points but certainly better to use copper pipe for this.

  7. #707
    Senior Lancista Taddraughn's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by GlynW View Post
    I’m with Tim on this. There are steel clips on the body that the fuel pipe should be held by and these will cause corrosion of an aluminium pipe especially if it sees salt from winter roads. I would also worry about chafing. The aluminium pipe will wear before steel. You could wrap a piece of rubber around the pipe at the contact points but certainly better to use copper pipe for this.
    I live in MS so there's never any salt put on the roads. But regardless of that the other points presented are certainly valid. I really don't much like the steel clips and may still change them out for something more robust. I'm still a little undecided about it, but I'm going to try and figure it all out this weekend.

    At least the aluminum tube will not have been completely useless. I got some good practice with it and now I can use the straight lengths left over to mock up the bends I need to make with the new tubing.

  8. #708
    Master Lancista GlynW's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    The other places you will see electrolytic corrosion of aluminium on a Fulvia Coupe are around the points where the exhaust centre-box heat shield, the rear brake-balance limiter and the rear brake line T-piece bolt onto the body. I'd recommend using plastic washers or gasket paper to minimise the electrical contact with the body in all those places. Salt water is not necessary for the reaction but it will increase the rate and the area over which the corrosion occurs (and I speak as a chemist!). On the plus side, corrosion of the aluminium does reduces the local corrosion of the steel!

    Keep up the impressive work,

    Glyn

  9. #709
    Senior Lancista Taddraughn's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by GlynW View Post
    The other places you will see electrolytic corrosion of aluminium on a Fulvia Coupe are around the points where the exhaust centre-box heat shield, the rear brake-balance limiter and the rear brake line T-piece bolt onto the body. I'd recommend using plastic washers or gasket paper to minimise the electrical contact with the body in all those places. Salt water is not necessary for the reaction but it will increase the rate and the area over which the corrosion occurs (and I speak as a chemist!). On the plus side, corrosion of the aluminium does reduces the local corrosion of the steel!

    Keep up the impressive work,

    Glyn
    Thanks for the input! I'll get some washers for the aluminum heat shield. I think the brake limiter is an S2 bit? Also my proportioning valve was on the axle I think? Will have to look back at pictures to confirm.

    I'm assuming the salt water would form a sort of an electrolyte solution that would increase the rate of corrosion? I am a mechanical engineer with a decent grasp on electrical stuff (in the energy/power world, not electronics) and I have always been HORRIBLE at chemistry. It always seemed like math, thermo, heat transfer, etc have strict rules or "laws" that may not be broken. Chemistry/chemicals seem to not have rules at all! lol

  10. #710
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    it's likely that when your car was re-sprayed it was done in acrylic enamel.

    I went over to take a look at the progress my uncle had made on the hood and it's actually looking quite good. I took this opportunity to pour lacquer thinner on a spot of the hood frame. It caused the paint to wrinkle and lift off very quickly, which I think confirms that it is acrylic enamel.

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