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  1. #691
    Legendary Lancista lancialulu's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    sorry but yes. Especially as Fulvias encourage enthusiastic driving sometimes on unmade roads.... I would not use Aluminium.

    Poll other forum watchers?

  2. #692
    Legendary Lancista Taddraughn's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by lancialulu View Post
    sorry but yes. Especially as Fulvias encourage enthusiastic driving sometimes on unmade roads.... I would not use Aluminium.

    Poll other forum watchers?
    I appreciate the feedback; I'll take a look at other options before I order any more tubing. Maybe the PVF coated steel or NiCopp will be a better option for me.

  3. #693
    Legendary Lancista Taddraughn's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    I went ahead and ordered the 3/8 NiCopp tubing along with some additional fittings. Still going to use AN fittings as before. Since I want EFI later on I can use AN female fittings on the tubing and for now, use AN male barb adapters. When I switch to EFI this will allow me to easily replace the barbs and rubber hose with Nylon or Stainless Braided hose that can handle the EFI fuel pressures.

    The return line won't be used for now and will just have male AN plugs screwed in.
    Last edited by Taddraughn; 15th July 2019 at 11:08 AM.

  4. #694
    Legendary Lancista bmarler's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    good choice. $65 for a roll isn't really too steep a price for the added benefit of the better tubing. for a road car it's the best way to go.
    bmarler/
    1967 fulvia sport zagato
    1961 appia vignale convert.

  5. #695
    Legendary Lancista Taddraughn's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    good choice. $65 for a roll isn't really too steep a price for the added benefit of the better tubing. for a road car it's the best way to go.
    The more I looked online the more I saw that aluminum is probably best left for race cars. I really didn't want to use stainless because it can be hard to work with so this NiCopp seems the next best thing. Always glad to have you guys chime in when something doesn't seem quite right.

    I'm still unsure whether I should use a single or double 37 degree flare with this. I'll have to play around with some short sections and try it out. I suppose it should be fine since the brake lines are 45 degree double flares. My eastwood tool does double flares in a two step process but I think I can just skip the first step if I want a single flare.

  6. #696
    Legendary Lancista bmarler's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    low pressure fuel lines will be fine with single flare. but if you're going to go efi later with the same lines double flare might be prudent. that line should be very workable. the nickle/copper blend makes it very ductile. a couple of practice flares will get you set.
    bmarler/
    1967 fulvia sport zagato
    1961 appia vignale convert.

  7. #697
    Legendary Lancista Taddraughn's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    low pressure fuel lines will be fine with single flare. but if you're going to go efi later with the same lines double flare might be prudent. that line should be very workable. the nickle/copper blend makes it very ductile. a couple of practice flares will get you set.
    Good deal.. Yeah I'll practice a bit before I do it on the bent lines. with 25 feet I'll have plenty left over to play with. I can also re-anneal after step 1 if necessary, but sounds like I'll be fine. I also found this chart from NPL about combinations of metals and it seems like the Aluminum fittings in combination with this nickel copper alloy should be fine.


  8. #698
    Legendary Lancista Taddraughn's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Does anyone know what the original Lancia paint composition would have been? Acrylic Enamel? Lacquer? I know my car was resprayed at some point, so maybe this info is not as helpful as testing with lacquer thinner on a rag.. After I get the new fuel and brake lines bent and the new insulation placed in the car, I'm going to start sanding, filling, sanding, and prepping the car for the paint to be touched up in the needed areas. Pretty much only the outer sills and rear arches that were affected by heat from welding. The engine bay is also going to get sprayed because it's a mix of body color and flat black. And of course the hood will need respraying when it is fixed.

    I do however have a small fear that when I spray the car the solvents in the paint might cause the original paint to wrinkle or react and I really don't have the money to pay for the entire car to be painted right now. I have a very knowledgeable paint guy that's a good friend of my dad and uncle (actually owns an automotive paint supply shop in town) and he's going to guide me through prepping everything and spray it when the car is ready.

    He sold me BC/CC because he said it would be extremely hard to get an invisible repair with single stage, whereas with BC/CC it will be easier to match the color and then clear the panel. When asked, he said a reaction is possible but that if the color is lightly dusted on the already painted areas that it would likely be okay. The color seems to be an extremely good match once dry. He dabbed some on the underside of the trunk lid that he scanned and after drying I actually cant find where he dabbed it.

    From searching around it seems like this sort of repair can be done with success:
    http://autobodystore.com/forum/showt...le-stage-paint

    I'm just wondering if any of you guys have input on this subject or have done similar repairs, etc.?

  9. #699
    Legendary Lancista lancialulu's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Bleu Mendoza was Max Meyer 1.346.7189. This was what I would call cellulose.

    Lechler who now own Max Meyer should do a single coat (ie not 2 pack or lacquer version) - see attached
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mendoza blue.JPG  

  10. #700
    Legendary Lancista bmarler's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    it's likely that when your car was re-sprayed it was done in acrylic enamel. the opportunity for lifting at the edges of the repair would be your biggest concern as the sanded area will go clear through to metal and expose all the layers of paint in between. those layers are of unknown material. there's a couple of ways to handle that. you can seal the repair areas with epoxy sealer then do your blend over that. or, some people dust a little clear over the repair to seal it, and then do the blend. i prefer the epoxy method as it stabilizes the repair area for further top coats. wet sand with p600 before shooting solid color, p800 for metallic.
    single stage isn't too tough to do a blend repair if the color is solid. metallic is a bit tougher. bc/cc is definitely the easiest to blend and will last longer than single stage.
    bmarler/
    1967 fulvia sport zagato
    1961 appia vignale convert.

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