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  1. #731
    Senior Lancista Bart Boosman's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    The 'pro's' work the filler while still soft, so that the cured rough product is almost the required shape and not like your sills. That saves a huge amount of time sanding!

    Also, realize that the lifespan of a shining finish is directly related to the grid used for sanding before application of the final coat. I work in the superyacht business where before the final layer everything is sanded (manually) starting with grid 400, followed by 800, 1200 and finally 2000. That's why these boats keep shining 'like the door of a whorehouse'.

  2. #732
    Senior Lancista Taddraughn's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Bart Boosman View Post
    The 'pro's' work the filler while still soft, so that the cured rough product is almost the required shape and not like your sills. That saves a huge amount of time sanding!

    Also, realize that the lifespan of a shining finish is directly related to the grid used for sanding before application of the final coat. I work in the superyacht business where before the final layer everything is sanded (manually) starting with grid 400, followed by 800, 1200 and finally 2000. That's why these boats keep shining 'like the door of a whorehouse'.
    Yes I've heard that many work the filler as it is still a little soft but I have not tried it yet. The 3M filler is pretty easily sanded when cured, but I'll give it a shot while its still a little soft and see if I can knock it down faster.

    I think 600 will be enough for me before I apply the base coat haha.. I'm sure my repair will last at least as long as the older single stage paint that's on the rest of the car. It's interesting to hear that there's a correlation between the grit and longevity of the paint though. Do you know the reason this is the case?

  3. #733
    Legendary Lancista bmarler's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Taddraughn View Post
    Yes I've heard that many work the filler as it is still a little soft but I have not tried it yet. The 3M filler is pretty easily sanded when cured, but I'll give it a shot while its still a little soft and see if I can knock it down faster.

    I think 600 will be enough for me before I apply the base coat haha.. I'm sure my repair will last at least as long as the older single stage paint that's on the rest of the car. It's interesting to hear that there's a correlation between the grit and longevity of the paint though. Do you know the reason this is the case?
    if you work the filler when it's soft you need a tool like a stanley sure form, or other type of cheese grater. the window to do this is short but if you take advantage of it you can save some time and sandpaper.
    and the grit doesn't have anything to do with longevity, only flatness (no orange peel) and shine. on the yachts it's a huge job, my son works at a local yacht company as a stainless fabricator and relays stories of the painters to me. i can see the 400 grit starting point to get the paint flat, then diminishing grit for shine. with such huge surfaces to work on i'd start with 400 too.
    for cars i do a variety of methods. 1000 grit is usually a good starting point, sometimes dry sand with finishing film, sometimes wet with trizact, sometimes good ol wet and dry on a block. usually a combination of those. but usually i end with 3000 grit or higher. it almost polishes itself at that point. just be mindful of body lines and such or you'll burn through in a heartbeat. hopefully you painter will take care of that part. usually just a de-nib and polish for repairs like that.
    bmarler/
    1967 fulvia sport zagato
    1961 appia vignale convert.

  4. #734
    Senior Lancista Taddraughn's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    if you work the filler when it's soft you need a tool like a stanley sure form, or other type of cheese grater. the window to do this is short but if you take advantage of it you can save some time and sandpaper.
    and the grit doesn't have anything to do with longevity, only flatness (no orange peel) and shine. on the yachts it's a huge job, my son works at a local yacht company as a stainless fabricator and relays stories of the painters to me. i can see the 400 grit starting point to get the paint flat, then diminishing grit for shine. with such huge surfaces to work on i'd start with 400 too.
    for cars i do a variety of methods. 1000 grit is usually a good starting point, sometimes dry sand with finishing film, sometimes wet with trizact, sometimes good ol wet and dry on a block. usually a combination of those. but usually i end with 3000 grit or higher. it almost polishes itself at that point. just be mindful of body lines and such or you'll burn through in a heartbeat. hopefully you painter will take care of that part. usually just a de-nib and polish for repairs like that.
    I don't have one of those tools; probably not worth buying considering I just have one arch and one sill left to do. I'm planning on knocking out the rest of this sanding work this weekend and being able to call the guy that's going to spray it on Monday to see when he's available. Hopefully he'll want to do it one day after work next week.

    Interesting that you mention the painter taking care of the polishing though. I hadn't really thought about it but I had 1000, 1500, and 2000 sandpaper and was thinking about purchasing a polishing kit with the intention of doing it myself. I can probably ask him to do the polishing after wet sanding though if it's a bad idea for me to do it myself having never polished a car before; I doubt he would have a problem doing that as well (I am paying him, after all).

    Was looking at this eastwood kit to polish everything https://www.eastwood.com/6-in-comple...ng-system.html

  5. #735
    Legendary Lancista bmarler's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Taddraughn View Post
    I don't have one of those tools; probably not worth buying considering I just have one arch and one sill left to do. I'm planning on knocking out the rest of this sanding work this weekend and being able to call the guy that's going to spray it on Monday to see when he's available. Hopefully he'll want to do it one day after work next week.

    Interesting that you mention the painter taking care of the polishing though. I hadn't really thought about it but I had 1000, 1500, and 2000 sandpaper and was thinking about purchasing a polishing kit with the intention of doing it myself. I can probably ask him to do the polishing after wet sanding though if it's a bad idea for me to do it myself having never polished a car before; I doubt he would have a problem doing that as well (I am paying him, after all).

    Was looking at this eastwood kit to polish everything https://www.eastwood.com/6-in-comple...ng-system.html
    since you haven't polished before you should think about asking the painter to do it for you. just ask about doing a cut and buff or de-nib and buff. someone is going to have to do the blending polishing anyway, so maybe your guy already has a plan for doing it.
    that eastwood kit has more than you need if you want to do it yourself. if you sand to p3000 you only need a good compound and pad. i use wizards mystic cut with an orange semi firm pad and it works flawlessly. it's ready for wax or sealant after that. you can probably buff out the p2000 scratch but it takes a while.
    bmarler/
    1967 fulvia sport zagato
    1961 appia vignale convert.

  6. #736
    Senior Lancista Taddraughn's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Didn't quite finish everything needed to get ready for paint, but I'll definitely be able to have primer on next weekend.

    I was at a disadvantage because I had to move my car off the lift and over to the paint booth. Had some help but it took a while. I also made a little frame that bolts into the subframe boxes, that allowed me to sand all the way down the firewall. By the time everything was set up it was 2PM and I had lost most of the day to that. I finished stripping paint out of the engine bay and gave everything a thorough wipe down with wax and grease remover and then shot it with the epoxy primer. Looks great for the most part except for a few runs, but those will sand out no problem before color.



    At this time I also sprayed the drivers sill and passenger arch, the two areas I had left to add filler. After it set up I added filler to the sill and arch, but ran out off willpower to get it all sanded down (also my hands were cramping up).



    Luckily I think I'm okay leaving the filler exposed since I have epoxy underneath it. Might try to sneak down a few days after work to get most of the sanding out of the way for this upcoming weekend. Then I'd just have to prime and block that before color can go on.

    [img]https://i.imgur.com/5Mzdn98.jp

  7. #737
    Senior Lancista Taddraughn's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Forgot to mention... I "flossed" the trim off with some nylon string because there was a crack in the paint that extended up to the bottom of it (also I wanted to take it off to re-position it anyway because it wasn't on exactly straight). I was expecting the normal 3M double sided trim adhesive tape, but instead I found a firm but flexible rubber like adhesive that you see in the photo with the filler applied. I really have no clue what it is.. very rubber-like. Anyone have any suggestions for getting the stuff off without harming the paint?

  8. #738
    Master Lancista boulderz's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Taddraughn View Post
    Forgot to mention... I "flossed" the trim off with some nylon string because there was a crack in the paint that extended up to the bottom of it (also I wanted to take it off to re-position it anyway because it wasn't on exactly straight). I was expecting the normal 3M double sided trim adhesive tape, but instead I found a firm but flexible rubber like adhesive that you see in the photo with the filler applied. I really have no clue what it is.. very rubber-like. Anyone have any suggestions for getting the stuff off without harming the paint?
    Lookin good so far! As for the adhesive I’d try a heat gun on low setting.

  9. #739
    Legendary Lancista bmarler's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    that old adhesive can be a real bear to get off. as was mentioned, a heat gun can help soften things up and get it pliable. use a plastic scraper to gently scrape it off. it will leave a residue that can usually be rubbed off with prep-sol or similar solvent. that doesn't seem like the factory mounting to me. i would think it was held on by clips. the adhesive though, is generally better for the job than clips, but maybe the double sided trim tape would be a better solution.
    bmarler/
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    1961 appia vignale convert.

  10. #740
    Senior Lancista Taddraughn's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    that old adhesive can be a real bear to get off. as was mentioned, a heat gun can help soften things up and get it pliable. use a plastic scraper to gently scrape it off. it will leave a residue that can usually be rubbed off with prep-sol or similar solvent. that doesn't seem like the factory mounting to me. i would think it was held on by clips. the adhesive though, is generally better for the job than clips, but maybe the double sided trim tape would be a better solution.
    I'll try some heat on some of it that came off with the trim and see how it affects the material. I definitely would never place this same kind of adhesive on the car again... The 3M double sided stuff should be more than enough to hold the trim on and less of a pain in the ass to remove later on if needed.

    I do think you're correct about the trim being help on with clips originally though. I suppose the previous owner decided to abandon them when he repainted the car.

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