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  1. #921
    Legendary Lancista Taddraughn's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by lancialulu View Post
    I suspect even with your excellent work rate the kinks will keep on appearing. My 1600HF (my avatar) I restored in 2006 and went to Turin for the Lancia Centenary that September. I had shaken down enough of the issues by then that we had a fast and reliable trip of some 3000kms. However, I still have a list of kinks to sort on the car. Doesn't stop me driving as I did this afternoon and to be fair the kinks are rather more subtle improvements these days.... Enjoy and drive
    Honestly as fast as the car went back together, I'm surprised I haven't had more issues. Really the only major thing has been that the carbs are not tuned correctly, but Marnix has given me some very detailed advice on how to get them adjusted better so that's the weekend project.

    I've done some progressively longer drives in the car as I start to trust it more. It's just a great feeling to drive over a speed bump and not hear any creaks, groans, or rattles. The car feels so solid now!

  2. #922
    Legendary Lancista Taddraughn's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    I've been enjoying my Fulvia quite a lot since having it back together, but as Brian suggested it hasn't been long and I'm already looking for something to tinker with. That and since it's starting to get colder, the Fulvia may go into storage for a couple months when it gets too cold for me to comfortable drive it.

    As such, I have pulled my spare engine from storage to see what it needs.



    I got this engine from Minnesota and the only info I had was that the car was wrecked back in the 70s and the only thing the guy had left (wasn't his car; he just got it after the wreck) was the engine. But from the outside everything looked very original so I was hopeful the inside would be in good condition. It even has this little timing gap cover I didn't know they came with.



    So the oil came out... and I saw the first evidence that someone has been in the engine before: Rounded off bolts on the sump's connection to the middle main cap. So at this point I opted just to remove the middle main cap to get the sump out of the way. Interestingly the steel parts have a slight fuzz to them.. It seems to rub away, so I'm not sure that it's actually rust.... Some very light surface rust on the counterweights of the crank, but not much. Bearing surface from the middle main has not worn to the copper or bronze colored layer and the journal on the crank has no scoring, so that's a good sign!







    Next I removed the water pump and found that it was the original brass one, which is probably less efficient having straight fins, but I like it! It also had the FISPA fuel pump on it.



    I then set the cams to their marks, which did not line up perfectly as they did with my berlina engine, and removed the head. I was very careful with the chain so that I would not break the oil nozzle.






    At this point I found that the cylinders were not in as great of shape as the rest of the engine led me to believe. TONS of carbon build up on the valves and the piston tops, but the real issue was a large ridge at the top of the combustion chamber, so this block is definitely headed to the machine shop. Time to think about what pistons I should go with...



    After this, I removed the front cover so that I could get the timing chain off, and found that my carefulness earlier was unwarranted, as someone has already broken the nozzle previously. Perhaps this happened when the car was in the wreck? and then someone opened the sump and started to take the engine apart to fix it? really not clear but whoever started messing with the engine doesn't seem to have gotten very far (other than ruining the sump to main cap bolts).



    Overall I'm pretty pleased with the condition. Mostly because the cylinder head aluminum is in wonderful condition and there is almost no corrosion at all. Hopefully in the coming weeks I can finish disassembly and get a good idea of all the measurements and what machining is needed other than boring the block and servicing the head. Seems promising so far though.

    My plan at the moment is to probably get higher compression pistons (~10:1) and switch to 818.303 valves. I think I'll keep the stock cams for now though. I will probably have a main bearing girdle made locally and I already have ARP studs, washers, and bolts for the main bearings. I also bought some rotax swivel head tappets, but only have 4 of them (I think they only had 4 at the time in stock, so I need to get a few more of those) Will try to source some ARP hardware that can work for the flywheel as well. I'm going to ask my cylinder head guy to do some porting as per Guy Crofts recommendations in the twin cam book (seems applicable to this engine).





  3. #923
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Congratulations your car looks stunning and you’ve achieved a ton much of which I’m sure isn’t mentioned in this incredible thread! Keep up the good work and enjoy the stunning fruits of your labor!

  4. #924
    Legendary Lancista Taddraughn's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by pdxgeo View Post
    Congratulations your car looks stunning and you’ve achieved a ton much of which I’m sure isn’t mentioned in this incredible thread! Keep up the good work and enjoy the stunning fruits of your labor!
    Thanks! It's been great driving the car around so much lately. I've had a few issues pop up since having it back together and lately have been trying to find the source of an oil leak that started during a long drive (rear of the engine somewhere.. kinda scared it's the rear main seal) but haven't had a chance to get it on the lift to really see what's going on.

  5. #925
    Active Lancista Astonish's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    For purely selfish reasons I would like to see you undertake the maximum number of modern re-engineering modifications(oil spigot, block dowels, etc.) and of course the ne plus ultra for the 1300.....80x80 bore and stroke.
    Michael Rigby '72 1.3S S.2

  6. #926
    Legendary Lancista Taddraughn's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Astonish View Post
    For purely selfish reasons I would like to see you undertake the maximum number of modern re-engineering modifications(oil spigot, block dowels, etc.) and of course the ne plus ultra for the 1300.....80x80 bore and stroke.
    There is definitely no one local that I trust to bore it out that far!! I did manage to find a place that can probably do it here in town, but I haven't spoken with them yet. They're a local crank grinding shop and a guy at another machine shop says they bore blocks by setting up the block on a mandrel using the main caps instead of using the normal boring head set up that would require an angle plate like Omicron uses. If that's the case they should be able to put my engine on the mandrel and set it to the right angle for boring.

    I definitely want to get a little more power from the engine, but at the same time I don't want to do anything so drastic that reliability is greatly impacted or drivability suffers. With just the slightly bigger valves, flowed head, and high compression pistons, and then eventually EFI, it should be more powerful than stock form, but not too highly strung.

    By the way, if anyone knows of a good shop that has experience boring these please let me know.. If it isn't too far I wouldn't mind shipping the block off to someone I know has experience with them. I know the guy Adan uses to bore blocks has done many of them, but he also charges over 1000 dollars, which seems insane to me... I've contacted a few guys out of state that haven't done Fulvia blocks, but have done VW VR6 blocks, so they might be a good choice if the local shop doesn't work out.

  7. #927
    Legendary Lancista lancialulu's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Austin, you are right to be careful about boring the block. It seems to be easy to bore slightly off true and then the pistons on one side are higher than the others.....(too high in fact....)

  8. #928
    Legendary Lancista bmarler's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    i knew it wouldn't be long before we saw an engine update to this thread...
    looks like a perfect candidate for a refresh. the main bearings look almost new, did you plastigauge them to see what the clearance is? with the broken nozzle i would expect more wear. i think it's not likely the nozzle broke off in the crash but anything's possible i guess. if you find it in the sump somewhere then maybe...
    look very closely at the head around the valve seats for cracks. if none there that's a big win.
    i think you're on the right heading with your plan, no reason to make it too high strung so it's not enjoyable to drive.
    bmarler/
    1967 fulvia sport zagato
    1961 appia vignale convert.

  9. #929
    Legendary Lancista 1,6 HF's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Astonish View Post
    For purely selfish reasons I would like to see you undertake the maximum number of modern re-engineering modifications(oil spigot, block dowels, etc.) and of course the ne plus ultra for the 1300.....80x80 bore and stroke.
    An 80mm bore is possible -- that was done for the prototype 1401cc competition units in period. But I wonder how you propose to achieve an 80mm stroke. Even the taller 1600 only runs a 75mm stroke (the 1401 ran the standard 69.7mm).
    Ed Levin
    Fulvia 1,6 HF

  10. #930
    Legendary Lancista Taddraughn's Avatar
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    Re: Taddraughn's Fulvia Coupe: Progress Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by bmarler View Post
    i knew it wouldn't be long before we saw an engine update to this thread...
    looks like a perfect candidate for a refresh. the main bearings look almost new, did you plastigauge them to see what the clearance is? with the broken nozzle i would expect more wear. i think it's not likely the nozzle broke off in the crash but anything's possible i guess. if you find it in the sump somewhere then maybe...
    look very closely at the head around the valve seats for cracks. if none there that's a big win.
    i think you're on the right heading with your plan, no reason to make it too high strung so it's not enjoyable to drive.
    I couldn't resist! I haven't checked the oil clearances yet (need to order some plastigauge) but if they measure within tolerance and don't require any new bearings that would be great!

    I'll check in the sump underneath the baffle for the nozzle. I didn't see it, but when I dropped the sump I wasn't looking for it. Really hoping that the head doesn't have cracks, but it's really dirty right now so I can't tell.

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