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MagnumPI
5th February 2006, 11:16 AM
Probably.. anyway maybe someone can help me out. There are two things on the intake I am not real sure what they are. One has 2 what look like vacuum connections on it sticking up, and the other is on the bottom, has 2 electrical connections neither of which are connected and I dont know what to do with them. they both look like they take a 24mm to get out? something around there. Seems like I checked but didnt have anything but some channel locks to get them out..

bjmarsh
5th February 2006, 12:07 PM
Top mounted "thing" is a thermovalve "switch" for the EGR system. The switch allows the coolant to warm up before the EGR system is activated If you need an EGR for SMOG then you need this "switch" It basically cuts off the vac to the EGR valve until the engine gets to operating temp. These fail frequently. If you remove this you will have a hole in your intake manifold!

The bottom "thing" is more of a mystery.
I am unaware of any electrical connections to the bottom of a Scorpion intake manifold. Are you sure the connectors are on the manifold itself?
Do you have an EGR connection on the back of the intake manifold? If not, is this the location of the switch? Someone may have removed the EGR tube and used a switch w/ the correct thread to replace it instead of using a plug. Again for SMOG, you need this tube present and connected. Hope this helps, if not describe your bottom switch in more detail.

ps: No dumb question on this forum (but sometimes you may get dumb answers)

Barry

MagnumPI
5th February 2006, 06:42 PM
I see.. Thanks for the help so far, the deal is the manifold on it isnt from a Scorpion, and it looks like you're right on both counts, they used a switch to plug some holes on the bottom back on both sides of the manifold, after looking at the stock manifold. So... this thermovalve switch if not hooked up to anything, no lines to it, can it cause any ill effect? I am having trouble figuring out why the engine runs, actually quite strong, with little to no backfire at this point, after timing it, etc, but will not idle. Maybe throttle linkage? It wont spring back but I tightened it at the carburetor, also not stock, but like I said it runs, it should idle. I remember reading about something on the intake causing this problem. I took off the smog equipment.

DJ
5th February 2006, 08:54 PM
Check to see if your fuel cutoff solenoid at the front of the carb (nearest the firewall) has the plunger in it. This solenoid cuts off fuel when the switch is turned off to prevent run-on. When I first got my car it would run fine but wouldn't idle worth a darn.

I finally figured out that the plunger was missing in this solenoid. This was an old-time "fix" recommended when the solenoid failed. However, I found that my car ran extremely rich without the plunger. Not sure why but that was the case.

I replaced the solenoid and plunger with a working unit and it solved my problem.

I'd also suggest that you check ALL of you vacuum lines and connections. This will cause significant idle problems, too.

Cheers,

SubGothius
5th February 2006, 09:09 PM
Not idling but running strong and smooth when revved up? My first inclination is to examine the idle circuit on the carb -- either the idle jets are clogged, or perhaps the idle cutoff solenoid is bad. Quick way to check the latter: with the key turned on (in the Run position), disconnect and reconnect the wire going to that solenoid on the carb -- you should hear it click every time you un/reconnect that wire. Now, if you don't hear the click, that could mean the solenoid's bad, or it could just mean a PO disabled it by removing the plunger (as discussed elsewhere in this forum), but at any rate, click=good solenoid, so you could rule that bit out if it clicks. ;)

bjmarsh
6th February 2006, 11:13 AM
the deal is the manifold on it isnt from a Scorpion,.. So... this thermovalve switch if not hooked up to anything, no lines to it, can it cause any ill effect?

Ok, sounds like you have a Beta intake manifold which IIRC does have a switch (one) in the manifold as well as an egr port.

If the thermovalve is not connected it will not affect idle. (you will however never pass smog without the correct DATRA carb and a functional EGR system, both a visual fail and an SMOG test fail.

Not sure about the Beta manifold, I think it is the same angle as the Scorp, is the carb level? if not you will have a problem with the float setting.

Get a vac gauge to see if you have an air leak, pretty common.

BTW, What carb are you using?

Barry

Will
6th February 2006, 05:53 PM
If somebody disconnected the emissions on that car, they probably stuck vacuum caps all over the multitude of hose barbs- i.e. on the inlet manifold as well. Unless they were real butchers and just used cut-up hoses plugged with bolts. The inlet manifold barbs that are toward the front of the car underneath should be checked out. An (unlit) propane or acetylene torch opened up in that area should indicate if there's a vacuum leak (idle will go from stumbling to running) or if cupping your hand over them changes the induction noise, then it's not just induction noise you are hearing, but a vacuum leak. The one that is about 4 or 5mm will keep the car from idling at all if it had a cap on it that got blown off.

Important note: if you get a backfire, and afterwards your car won't idle, you probably blew off a cap.