OK...time to replace the starter on my 82 Beta Zagato.

[Betazag]

OK then. My lights go dim when I try to start the car but I just hear the humming noise so I think the current is reaching the starter or solenoid. Another major surgery to perform? I am told that I need to pull out my starter and solenoid and check them. I am figuring that I might as well expect to replace them since I am going to the trouble of pulling them out. First off, I need to find a remanufactured starter/solenoid. I have looked around and it looks like Vick Autosports has the best price...$106.75 + a $75 core charge. Any other good sources out there? I have looked over the manuals and read the instructions on removing the starter. Any pointers from you experienced mechanics that have done this on a Beta? I usually screw something up when I try something like this unless I have help. It looks like a tough place to reach even if the radiator, fan and thermostat are removed. Looks even tougher to get the new one back in.
I still need to clean the contacts on the wires lgoing to the starter and the earth to block connection, but I can't find them. I still think the diagnosis is to replace the starter. Any advice here? MR

[cthargiss]

Shucks/Kragen/Checker charged me $64 + $25 core for a Beta starter.

Craig

[Gregory Smith]

Remove the grille too, you can do a lot of it through the grill opening, assuming no A/C stuff in the way. Otherwise, standard Beta protocol, which means removing several other things to get to the thing you need to get to. Last time I did this I renewed the main + battery cable while it was apart. Having the car's front end up on ramps is nice on the back.

If you can, find an independent auto electric repair shop who does their own rebuilding. You may be able to have yours rebuilt for less and have better results. The replacements from some chain stores are poorly done, and the Beta one is not one you want to get good at.

Remember this first step once it's on the ramps though: disconnect battery (-) terminal!

[Betazag]

Well, I ordered a starter from Vick Autosports...it hasn't arrived yet. In the meantime, a buddy told me to simply do this: Unhook battery...locate the brown wire under the steering column going to the ignition...attach a 12 gauge wire to it and run it through the firewall to the battery...attach a fuse holder with a 30 amp fuse to the wire and connect it to the positive side of the battery. He guaranteed it would work and it did....car fired right up. I thought this was a little easier than hooking up a relay. I might keep the new starter as a spare. Mark R

[SubGothius]

Speaking of replacing starters, does anyone have a torque spec for the starter mounting bolts, if there is one? I can't find the spec in Haynes anywhere...

I'd gathered that the starter motor itself should be good for the life of the car under normal use and conditions, so really most apparent "bad starter motor" issues can be traced to wiring, switches, relays, and the solenoid. I suspect that replacing the whole starter motor assembly would resolve many starter issues, not by replacing a "bad" starter with a good one, but more likely because of the new solenoid and all the refreshed wiring connections involved in swapping things out.

I had got a collection of bits on eBay anticipating the need to refresh my starter assembly -- solenoid, engagement fork, pinion gear -- only to discover, once the starter was out, that only the pinion gear would fit and didn't need replacement anyway. Apparently the 3-bolt Marelli solenoid and plastic engagement fork I'd got were only for FIAT applications (or possibly earlier-series Beta but not my '79 2L?)... However, the 2-bolt solenoid in my car appears to be a Bosch unit, so may be easy to source via a local parts supplier, and looks like I can remove it in-situ without removing the starter itself.

[Gregory Smith]

These bolts are about M8 right (13mm wrench)?

Generally, unless we're talking special high-strength applications, bolts this size are good for 18 ft. lbs. Sometimes a range of 18-22 ft. lbs. is given, but 18 should be sufficient.

[SubGothius]

Thx for the torque tip. In the end, I got my original solenoid rebuilt at a local alternator exchange (find one in the US here (http://www.boschservice.com/public/servicelocation/hdautomotive.html) ;) ) for a mere $20! Looks brand-new so far as I can tell from the outside, so apparently they only kept the original winding... ???