Engine removal?

[pbharcourt]

I have decided to remove the engine and give it a rebuild over the winter months due to a few problems that need sorting out.
I am going to renew the shell bearings, engine mounts and have a frost crack in the block welded up, I have somebody to do the welding already lined up but need a source for the bearings, engine mounts and a full gasket set.
I know Omicron can help but at a price are there any alternatives?
The other question I would like to know is: is it possible to remove the engine without having to remove the whole sub frame and running gear?
I dont have a full workshop manual for the Flavia, only the Fulvia.

[philm]

Hi Paul,

I did all of this (other than the welding) on my Sport. Give me a call (I will pm you my No) and we can have a chat. Basically though you can remove the engine and leave the gearbox, brakes etc well alone. The only problem I had was that the mtg brkt for the oil cooler just fouled the front of the engine comming out, no matter what angle I had the engine out I could not clear it so I cut it off and made a new bolted brkt. I also have some suppliers you may want to use and a full shop manual you can borrow. Battery cover is comming on, when do you plan on pulling the engine out, I would be happy to give you a hand and bring the newly manufactured cover down.

Phil

[pbharcourt]

Hi Phil,
I will give you a ring shortly.
This is the sort of info I was looking for! I have stripped away the accesories and was trying to work out how I could get the engine past the oil cooler bracket without removing the cylinder head first.
I am doing this on the drive so was trying to get it out before the really cold weather comes in, I will take a few pictures as the work proceeds.

[pbharcourt]

Here are a few pictures showing the offending oil cooler bracket and the frost crack in the block.

[philm]

Thats a big old crack, could I ask a favour? as you have the distributor out could you see how much rotational play there is in the shaft plugged into the oil pump? Going back to the crack, it looks like it extends all the way past the dip stick hole to the fire face (where the head gasket sits) if so then I think you will need to pull the head off to weld right up and then, depending on how large the weld ends up you may just be able to dress it back by hand.

[pbharcourt]

Not quite that bad Phil!
I have high lighted the crack to show the length, I have a man that can weld alloy so fingers crossed.

[pbharcourt]

Dont you just love working on the street at the mercy of the lovely but fickle English weather!!!

[fay66]

Dont you just love working on the street at the mercy of the lovely but fickle English weather!!!

Well done that man, I need to replace the thermostat in my 2c that's in my garage and I can't generate the enthusiasm to do it!
Now with your efforts as my inspiration I'll see if I can have a go this afternoon:encourage:
Brian

[pbharcourt]

The block is back from the welders, it seems the crack was a flaw in the block from manufacturing and not a frost crack. The flaw ran up to the head gasket area to form a T shape and there was an area of pock marking showing air bubbles in the casting.
The welder has done a grand job to strengthen the whole area up which should no longer give any problems and luckily is hidden under the dynamo.

[pbharcourt]

The engine is back together but now with a bit of bling!
Red rocker covers !!! well I like them anyway:)
I also had the flywheel lightend a bit, it only takes two people to carry it now! It will be interesting to see what difference it makes.