Fulvia Series 1 Door lock button

[super_golfer]

The interior lock button on my Fulvia refuses to push down and lock the door- so I removed the lock for further investigation, and found that when I push down on the lever on which the button screws onto, there is a bar lower down in the assembly preventing the lever going all the way down and 'locking' the lock.

Now if I simulate the door closing (by rotating the brass 'cog' on the edge of the lock) , if I rotate it one 'click', the lever still won't go down all the way, but if I rotate it a bit more (with another 'click'), then hey presto, the arm goes all the way down, and the lock is 'locked'.

The problem is, when the lock is on the door and pushed against the striker on the door frame, the 'cog' only rotates as far as the first 'click'. Is it the lock that is worn, or the striker, or both.

Sorry if this is not very well explained - I have highlighted the 'cog' in the diagram to try and make it easier!!!

Cheers

[ncundy]

With the door closed the striker is not engaging correctly with the lock (brass cog). The striker can be adjusted (as can the door) but almost always you find when this (only going one click) is occurring it's because the striker plate has worn on the lip on the underneath. It doesn't really matter how much you try to adjust everything when they are worn. What I have done is to cut the offending bit out and replaced it with a brass insert (glued and pinned).

I would try and adjust it out first but check for the above.

Always check second hand ones for wear in this area, they can be as bad or worse than those you are trying to replace.

[super_golfer]

Many thanks for such a clear reply - I think this is exactly my problem. Now to find a good replacement. By the way, did you repair your striker yourself, or get a specialist to do it.

I attach a photo of one of mine, but to be honest the quality is not too good.

[ncundy]

Did it myself. Used a dremmel to shape the striker lip, shaped the brass to a close finish and then glued the brass in. Drilled a small pilot hole with a countersink and put a small but long screw through then filled it with metal paste and filed down. Finished the shape of the new lip with the dremmel.

Seems to work well, whether it'll still be there in 5 years is another thing :)