Throttle linkage picture DCNF setup Montecarlo

[Otto-valvole-per-tutte]

I can't remember who it was but someone overhere wanted to post some piccies from the throttle linkage from a Monte with DCNF carbsetup.

Anyone?

:roll:

Cheers, Pieter

[Otto-valvole-per-tutte]

DJ kindly posted me some piccies from the linkage system which i posted (i hope i'm legal with it DJ :wink: ) in my album:

http://www.lancisti.net/forum/modules.php?set_albumName=album87&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php&page=8

As the time is near to install my DCNF carbs plus manifold i've come up with the following questions (i've got a series 2 BTW):

1) There's a small cooling liquid hose which in the old setup went to the 34 Weber carb. What do i do with that one? Attach it to the Alquati manifold? I believe there's a connection on it.

2) The crankcase breather hose, can that be attached to the nice Montehospital airbox? I guess yes but then it has to be drillend because the attaching point is not open yet.

3) There's a vacuum hose from the old setup manifold going to a small pot near the cooling liquid tank, on that pot a small hose goes to the interior. Probably to supply the vacuum for the ventilation system? Can that vacuum hose be attached to the Alquati manifold?

4) I'm using an electric pump to supply the fuel. What safety electrics can be done to stop that fuel pumping in case of an accident? Where's the best point to get the electric + from?

5) Does it matter what height the electric fuel pump is going to be placed?

6) How is the original plate with throttle lever on it being installed on the Alquati manifold? Just on two backmountingpoints for 1 DCNF carb?

7) Is the original plate from the dynamo where also the dipstick is mounted on a problem or can that one be unmodified?

I know a lot of questions but i guess you guys can help me (and future DCNF fitters) with them.

Cheers, Pieter

[Paul C (Monte 3686)]

Pieter,
First, there are two models of Alquati manifold. One marked BETA-MC which has mounting holes for the throttle linkage plate, and one marked CREMONA (a town where they are made apparently) which does not.
I'll answer what I can:
1) the coolant hose does NOT conect to the manifold, but bypasses the induction system altogether. You will need a length of hose for this job.
2) You can connect the crank case breather to the airbox after drilling it and fitting an extension to the rubber hose.(While the carbs are off, it is worth checking the condition of the breather short "L" rubber hose, as these are otherwise hidden).
3) there is a vacuum takeoff on the manifold, although it is a large bore, designed for the brake booster on the S1. My heating system vacuum hoses are not connected yet, so I can't help you on that.
4) You need to install some relay logic. Easy to do. One relay is NO (normally open), and is closed by the supply to the starter solenoid to give you fuel on cranking. The other relay is NC and is opened or interrupted by the oil pressure switch, this gived you fuel when running. These relay supplies for the fuel pump are wired in parallel. This is the way the S1 is wired, and worked well on my X1/9. The relays are not special, but not all relays have a NC option.
5) Lower is better, although I am running a pump at the top of the tank and I haven't had a problem scavenging yet!
6) I had to have a plate fabricated from 5mm steel to take the carb mounting points further forward to give space and the correct hole spacing for the linkage plate. Depends on your manifold.
7) I removed the alternator adjuster 'arc' and welded an extention it from an old Fiat one to allow me to fit a longer V bely. I think I have a 1125 at the moment, which gives me clearance from alternator to manifold. be careful or you will have big sparkes.

Cheers
Paul

[Otto-valvole-per-tutte]

1) the coolant hose does NOT conect to the manifold, but bypasses the induction system altogether. You will need a length of hose for this job.
7) I removed the alternator adjuster 'arc' and welded an extention it from an old Fiat one to allow me to fit a longer V bely. I think I have a 1125 at the moment, which gives me clearance from alternator to manifold. be careful or you will have big sparkes.

Paul, thanks for answering. My mechanic send me a piccie (carbs plus manifolds are lying around at his for quite some time, so i didn't remember what they looked like), and i see i have the right M.C. manifold.

http://www.lancisti.net/forum/modules.php?set_albumName=album87&id=Manifold&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

It's not clear to me what you're doing with the small coolant hose?

It looks like on the piccies from DJ that he's using the "normal" alternator "arc"?

Ciao, Pieter

p.s. my throttle connection device seems to be a bit DIY-style:

http://www.lancisti.net/forum/modules.php?set_albumName=album87&id=Mechanism&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

[Paul C (Monte 3686)]

Pieter,

Glad you sent the link for the picture, as I am working from memory!
The coolant pipe does, of course, start at the manifold and I took this over the engine and connected it to the 'T' piece on the right of the engine.

I think you can fit an unmodified alternator adjuster, but I think the different manifold designs make a difference here. I certainly needed a little more room so as to prevent a 'short'. Maybe you will not need this.

If you look at the poor picture of my engine bay
http://www.lancisti.net/forum/modules.php?set_albumName=albuo45&id=3686_40DCNFs&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php
you can just about see a small hose with a red cable tie around it at the top right. This joins the metal pipe on the right side to to the right of the coil. To the left it goes down to the Alquati manifold.

Cheers
Paul

[Otto-valvole-per-tutte]

Paul,

Any ideas wether the nice airbox can be wrinklecoated?

I see you are using a fuel pressure regulator as well.

Hope it all works!

Regards, Pieter

[Paul C (Monte 3686)]

Pieter,

I'm not sure about crackle-finish paint on the airbox. It is fiberglass and the gel coat is quite smooth. I suppose if you were to rub it down enough to 'key' the paint in it would work.
On my set-up I havn't moved the engine-lid 'stay bar' though, so I sometimes get a little rubbing between the airbox and the hinge bracket for the stay. This clearance would have to be sorted before any nice paintwork on the airbox.

The pressure regulator does work, as I have an in-line gauge that I inserted while setting it up. The factory setting was a little too high, and I now have it down to 3.8 psi (I think - but this was three years ago now!).
Cheers
Paul
PS - noticed from your gallery that you also have a SAAB. Why do so many Lancia owners also drive Saabs? 3 out of 5 Monte Consortium committee members also drive Saabs! We had a spares meeting 4 years ago that looked more like a Saab Owners Club meeting!!
Chad's other car is a - you guessed it - a 900!

[Otto-valvole-per-tutte]

I'm not sure about crackle-finish paint on the airbox. It is fiberglass and the gel coat is quite smooth. I suppose if you were to rub it down enough to 'key' the paint in it would work.

On my set-up I havn't moved the engine-lid 'stay bar' though, so I sometimes get a little rubbing between the airbox and the hinge bracket for the stay. This clearance would have to be sorted before any nice paintwork on the airbox.

The pressure regulator does work, as I have an in-line gauge that I inserted while setting it up. The factory setting was a little too high, and I now have it down to 3.8 psi (I think - but this was three years ago now!).
Cheers
Paul
PS - noticed from your gallery that you also have a SAAB. Why do so many Lancia owners also drive Saabs? 3 out of 5 Monte Consortium committee members also drive Saabs! We had a spares meeting 4 years ago that looked more like a Saab Owners Club meeting!!
Chad's other car is a - you guessed it - a 900!

Paul, for using the crackle finish paint a heating fan is to be used to create the crackle. I wonder if the airbox can take that. Don't want to ruin it!

As i'm using another placed distributor i can cut out the DCNF openings a little more to the back so the box comes more to the front. Hope to avoid fitting problems in that way.

How much barros is 3.8 PSI? Sorry, am a continent guy you know :wink:

Yeah, the Saab. It's my mums, an early 16V from 1985 with 170.000 kms. We have had it since 1986 with 20.000 k's and it never gives any trouble, very reliable and practicle car.

Cheers, Pieter

[Paul C (Monte 3686)]

Pieter,

I didn't know that method of crackle paint. I have seen it for sale in cans from Frosts www.frosts.co.uk which probably has some chemical process that makes it go crackle!

As for clearance, an end mount distributer sounds like a fine idea. One less problem to worry about.

As for the fuel pressure, 1 Bar is approx 14.5psi, so 3.8 psi is around 0.26 Bar.
Athough British, I live on your side of the channel in a metric household (except for my old SAAB that is UNC/UNF for the American market)!

Cheers
Paul

[Wallace]

Black crackle paint DEFINETLY needs a bit of heat to make it work - either from a heat gun or leaving it on the parcel shelf in a car parked in the sun ! The fibreglass should be able to take this !

[Otto-valvole-per-tutte]

Black crackle paint DEFINETLY needs a bit of heat to make it work - either from a heat gun or leaving it on the parcel shelf in a car parked in the sun ! The fibreglass should be able to take this !

Will you guys promise me not to laugh to hard when things go wrong?

:lol:

[Wallace]

I did say "should" !!

Or outside on a HOT sunny day (what's that ??)

Seriously -, outside, in the sun, and ambiant air temp no less than 20 deg. Otherwise it won't crackle !