Gearbox Oil Leak and Driveshaft Coupling

[Pope1]

Recently changed my gearbox oil to Redline MTL, drove the car twice, and then discovered the Redline was leaking out.

It was a public holiday here yesterday so I had time to remove the engine, gearbox and sub-frame. (By the way, I'm slightly disappointed with the Haynes instructions on how to do this so I'm writing some notes of my own that will enable me to do it quicker next time. If anyone would like a copy when they're done, please let me know).

The Redline seems to be coming out of the where the driveshaft centre section goes into the gearbox. In addition, I suspect that the drive coupling on the end of that shaft has been fitted the wrong way round. Would appreciate some advice please on:

1. What is involved in changing the relevant seal(s) at this point?
2. Is the coupling fitted correctly or should it be the other way round with the rubber seal closer to the gearbox?

http://home.caribsurf.com/chrysalis/images/oilleak.jpg

[Hamish]

Recently changed my gearbox oil to Redline MTL, drove the car twice, and then discovered the Redline was leaking out.....


It's possible the leak is being caused by the Redlines different 'properties' compared to standard gearbox oil - but it's more likely there's a seal 'away' somewhere :roll:

The solution doesn't bear thinking about - ie: take it all apart (within reason :!: ) and replace gaskets/sealant where you can - check the torque settings on everything you can....

As far as I can see it all looks OK, but I'd need to have a look at my 'visitor' to be sure :?

[Pope1]

I'm pretty sure the driveshaft seal is defective on this side. The leakage is just worse with the Redline as it's so much lighter. I'm wondering whether I can change the seal without opening the whole box i.e. by removing the 4 bolts shown and opening from there. Does anyone know for sure?

As for the coupling, I can move it from side to side about 1/2 - 3/4 inch and the picture in the Haynes manual shows something that looks the other way round???

[SubGothius]

I, for one, would definitely appreciate a more concise (or just easier-to-follow) subframe-with-drivetrain drop procedure, as I'm sure many others here would -- how about posting your notes to a dedicated thread in this here forum? Might even warrant posting/moving to the FAQ section...

Looking closely at the pics and diagrams in both the Haynes manual and the dealer Shop Manual I've got, it does appear the "dust guard" (as a diagram in the latter book labels it) on that coupler should indeed go on the differential end! Fitted the other way'round, it's serving no purpose and has nothing holding it on, as is apparent from your photo. Given the nomenclature for that boot, I have to wonder to what degree your leak may be caused by dust/grit simply getting to, and getting into, that seal on the diff's output shaft?

That said, looking at the same Haynes manual you've apparently got, renewing that seal (Ch.7,Sec.4) appears easy enough -- take off that 4-bolt retainer plate (be sure to leave the shim behind it in place!), remove the old seal from behind that cover, pop a new one in, put the plate back on and torque appropriately. You'll prolly also wanna get a new o-ring that goes around the outside edge behind that plate, between the plate and the diff. casing, as well -- might as well replace that while you're doing the output shaft seal already anyway.

I don't suspect you'd need to mess with all the rolling-torque/shim business Haynes mentions in the preceding Sec.3, so long as you keep the existing shim in place, as all that's apparently involved with a major diff. overhaul and refitting new rollerbearings in the diff., not just a seal replacement.

[Pope1]

Thanks, Tye. I'll get some notes written up and post them in draft form for others to comment on so that we get the benefit of collective wisdom.

I didn't have time to consult the Haynes oracle last night, other than the picture, so I will review the relevant material later. Just wondering whether anyone here has actually performed the operation because sometimes Haynes is not the easiest to follow unless you're doing a complete strip-down of everything.

[arc]

Chris,

I would like a copy of your ammendments to the haynes manual of this particular section. I am about to take on the procedure, and I hate doing things the long way if it can be helped.
Where can I find them or can you send your notes to me?
Thanks.

Jeremy.

[Pope1]

Jeremy, yes well the road to hell is paved with good intentions! I've been so busy sorting out bits and pieces since I took the engine out that I've not written up the notes properly but can probably do so today if that's any help. In addition, I didn't take any photos at the time as I did not have the write-up in mind then so it will just be text I'm afraid.

[Pope1]

Documentation Part 1

I've posted a short introductory piece (that does in fact have pictures) at this location http://home.caribsurf.com/chrysalis/beta/engine_removal.htm.

So far it only contains information about the facilites that I put together in order to tackle this job. I'll add information about the actual removal sequence later. Once everything has been completed, I'll create a new topic for the whole thing.

[Pope1]

First draft is done but have to proof it tomorrow when I am a little more alert. Will publish it at some stage during the day. Same link as before, just updated with additional content.

[Pope1]

First draft is now available at the following address:

http://home.caribsurf.com/chrysalis/beta/beta_engine_removal.htm

Please ignore the link posted previously.