Fuel tank sender

[dannels]

Hi all,

Has anyone removed their float/sender from their fuel tank?

Its fairly fragile so I don't want to damage it - so a few wise words would help greatly before I do try....

Cheers
Dave

[Fingers]

Hi Dave, can't help sorry, but I have removed my sender from my Fulvia tank, pulled it to bits and given it a good clean. It was sitting in the tank half covered in fuel for ten years so was looking a little worse for wear.

Removing it wasn't difficult, I just took it very easy. If you're gentle and don't force anything I would think you shouldn't have too much trouble.

[Todd D.]

Dave,
I've removed a couple and its not too bad. The tiny (4 or 6 mm) nuts are brass and rarely seize up. Take your time though.
The rod that the float is attached to is steel as well as the little gears that mesh together and they rust quite badly.
Mine sat for many years but cleaned up nicely. The other parts are brass and copper and will tarnish a bit but are easily cleaned.
The float is actually a laquered cork. Mine was cracked and falling apart. I haven't quite figured out how to fix it yet.

[dannels]

Thanks Todd,

So the screws in the top of the sender are holding it on the tank - I assumed the whole assembly was threaded so needed unscrewing and those screws just held the top cover on!

Thats much simpler - glad I asked. I imagine the cork float will not be in a great way in mine either!

Cheers
Dave

[Todd D.]

Dave,
I've attached 2 pictures of Flaminia fuel senders.
The short one is from the GT and has the delicate looking gears. The long one is from my 61 PF coupe and
is more straight forward in design.
The coupe's was held in with 3 steel Philips head bolts and the GT was held in with 3 steel 7mm bolts.
I was wrong saying they were brass....be carefull and soak them alot.
The rubber gasket will probably be toast but is easily reproduced.
You can see the cork floats .
What kind of Flaminia do you have?
Todd

[dannels]

Thanks Todd.

Mine is a GT and here is the tank (a work of art in itself) within which I expect to find the short version of the sender and am praying its in good condition...

Cheers
Dave

[Todd D.]

Yours doesn't look too bad. I would use Eastwood Companys gas tank re-new kit to clean it. I took mine to a shop last year
but was not too happy with the results. They drilled holes all over and used a sand blaster to clean it that punched holes in the walls. Its okay now but doesn't look as it did.
Have you managed to get the brass allan head plug out of the bottom? Check to see if the brass screen for the pick up is still
there.
Todd

[dannels]

I guess they drilled the holes to access the reserve and parts of the tank inaccessible because of the baffles...

Mine in now full of tank cleaner. It will then be steam cleaned and once clear of all fuel - I hope the drain plugs will shift with a little heat. They certainly don't move with penetrating oil and brute force!

My float sender is in a bad way unfortunately - the gears and wire holding the cork are very corroded. Not sure if I can save it yet....

[B24Spider]

The site just timed out my longer reply, but the short version is to try a citric acid type rust remover/converter on the senders. It's not cheap, but affordable for small amounts. For larger volumes you can mix up your own. It should clean up most rust/zinc oxide/etc., and penetrating oil and patient working should take care of the rest. I also like to make my own metal floats.

[dannels]

The tank is now chemically cleaned - back to white metal inside. After carefully working the float-sender it looks like I've saved it. Thanks everyone.

31883189

[fay66]

The tank is now chemically cleaned - back to white metal inside. After carefully working the float-sender it looks like I've saved it. Thanks everyone.

31883189


What did you finish up cleaning the tank with please?

Brian

[dannels]

I paid a specialist to clean it inside after my attempt with a 'tank cleaning chemical' was not very successful. I used these guys who let the tank stand for 2 weeks: http://www.iandmautobodyrepairs.co.uk/petrol-tanks.php

[fay66]

I paid a specialist to clean it inside after my attempt with a 'tank cleaning chemical' was not very successful. I used these guys who let the tank stand for 2 weeks: http://www.iandmautobodyrepairs.co.uk/petrol-tanks.php
Many thanks David,
I've now added the site to my "Favourites" I used to work for Vauxhall motors and one of my areas was the petrol tank manufacturing so I have a fair idea of how they go together, and from what I can see on the site they are very thorough and I'd agree with them it's better to clean out rather than coat them in a sealer or a paint, as originally all our tanks were made from coated steel.
was it a very expensive process? as they don't quote any prices as each job is obviously a one off.

Brian

[dannels]

You can pay £200 or £300 pounds depending on the state of it and what you want them to do. I saved money by delivering/collecting it as well as stripping the under seal and painting it myself. Mine was also in good condition so didn't require welding or re-leading

Dave

[fay66]

You can pay £200 or £300 pounds depending on the state of it and what you want them to do. I saved money by delivering/collecting it as well as stripping the under seal and painting it myself. Mine was also in good condition so didn't require welding or re-leading

Dave

If you've got a bad tank, certainly sounds the way to go, and as usual anything you can do yourself can make a big difference to the final bill.

brian