Boost gauge install photo

[Pope1]

Some of you will remember that I installed a boost gauge a couple of weeks ago and then decided that I didn't like having it down by the cigarette lighter. Well after some thought, a few careful modifications, one careless mistake, the normal foul-ups and the requisite amount of swearing, this is what I came up with.

http://home.caribsurf.com/chrysalis/images/vxboost.jpg

Switch blanks on either side of the ventilation control have been removed, the HRW switch is now on the left next to the hazard light switch and the new gauge is next to the existing instruments. No unsightly pods or mounting brackets and a fairly decent match I think. If anyone else is interested in taking the same route I'll be happy to pass on what little I learnt in the process.

Chris

[Will]

..."and a requisite amount of swearing"

YES! BTDT! I think I've actually made some new words!

What are you using for line, capillary tube?

I ran mine in plastic I got from an icemaker installation kit for a 'fridge, 1/4" polyethylene tubing. I figured it was a bit lighter than copper. I wondered what "normal" people use?

-Will

[Pope1]

The gauge came with about six feet or so of poly tubing so I used that. I guess it's about 1/4". It passes over the supercharger to get to the manifold and for that section I threaded it though some thicker tubing and wrapped the whole thing with a few layers of tin foil to give it some heat protection.

I also fitted one to my turbocharged VW Golf last week-end and that had some really small nylon tubing.

Chris

[chrisc]

Looks good. Now if you can find somewhere to install an air / fuel ratio gauge as well :)

[Pope1]

That one definitely lives down by the cigarette lighter. I have a socket for one in that location and so far I have only used it to check the mixture and adjust the carb. I wasn't planning to use it all the time. In fact, only this morning I was wondering where I'd put the thing after I used it last. :o

[andybeta]

You have a lambda sensor in the exhaust and an air flow meter permanently mounted in the car?

I saw DTweeks were doing one for about £240, sensor + meter. A bit pricey but worth it if accurate and reliable?

I've some extra gauges, a Smiths boost gauge and oil pressure/oil temp gauge, mounted, but not yet connected up at the engine end for various reasons. I went for the RHS, under the dash edge, with a nice gauge holder that matches the dash pretty well. The piping went through with the main loom trunking right in the corner above the accelerator pedal. Will take a pic tomorrow and post.

Andybeta

[Pope1]

Andy,

No not quite. I have a narrowband sensor and a meter that I bought some time ago for about 80 pounds I think. Have wiring in place so that the sensor and the meter can just be plugged in as necessary for testing/diagnostic purposes.

You've taken the same route as I have for the tubing. Was the only place that I could find that was easily accessible without taking the dashboard out again. Didn't think about the RH end of the dash but you're right, it is a good location especially with a black gauge holder. In my case I had just bought a pod for my Golf so I had pods on the brain. Didn't really fancy one for the Beta and was upset at having to order another one (with another set of shipping costs) so I just came up with the dash idea.

Question - why the additional gauges for oil pressure and temp?

Chris

[andybeta]

It was decided a combination gauge with mechanical oil pressure and temp would be more accurate than the std ones. Have since heard that the std are quite good but it can't hurt to have both, just need a bit of ingenuity to have both running and still use the standard set up as well. It can be done.

Will try to post pics of the gauges and location soon.

Andybeta

[Pope1]

I had a question about the oil pressure one not so long ago and was told that it's not very accurate but I haven't heard anything about the temperature one.

[Will]

Watch out for mechanical oil pressure units, as they can make a royal mess of your interior if anything goes wrong with the plumbing, not to mention uninstalling them might be fun. "Straight" mechanical fuel pressure units are pretty much outlawed over here, haven't seen one in a long time. There are "2-stage" units that contain a little reservoir with a diaphragm on it, where the gas or oil stays on one side, and some different fluid runs to the gauge, I'm not sure if it's mineral oil or what.

Most of the units like the Autometer, etc- use a sender and then a seperate black box that translates to something the display can read. It makes for a bit of additional wiring, but the units are remarkably resistant to changes in voltage, and I've found them to be quite good. I'm currently using these autometer boxes for the EGT and fuel pressure units on my car, and other than the label peeling off the plastic box, have been quite pleased with them. They survived a bit of welding on the car as well, so appear quite robust.

Given the choice I'd opt for the electric, but to each his own....

-Will

[Pope1]

It's certainly a lot easier to run wires that's for sure. Have to say I was dreading the prospect of finding suitable places to run vacuum lines into the Beta and the Golf but it turned out to be much easier than I thought in both cases. However, given the number of times I have had to disconnect the vacuum lines and re-connect them, post-installation, I'd say Will's point is worth considering. How thick is the oil tubing and is there any chance of it coming adrift when the engine is running?

Chris

[Will]

...the oil tubing is usually a very thin (capillary) tubing. I'm (sort of) a plumber in my day job and I can tell you from experience that given the option, I'd rather plug/unplug an electrical plug than refit a tiny flare or compression fitting over and over (on a tube filled with engine oil, no less). There's also the possibility of the tube getting damaged by flexing, pinching, or kinking while doing other work.
If you had an all-out racer with an aluminum pan floor, it might not matter as I guess you could just wipe up the oil. I wouldn't risk it on a car with a plush restored interior and carpet.

For wiring, I used telephone wire- because I had to pay $$$ for a spool of teflon jacketed telephone wire (fireproof) for one of my jobs, and had the material left over. Works fine. The Autometer boxes have screw terminal blocks that will work with solid or braided wire.

-Will