Beta front strut replacement

[ckeen74]

Hi all,

I just pulled the old, original front struts from my sedan, and am about to install some Konis I got from DJ. While I have time to think about it, I looked around to see if there are any complications in putting the Konis in. While some things I've read (including advice from DJ himself) say this is a pretty straightforward procedure, I'm reading other stuff that says you need to get the strut body modified to install aftermarket inserts. I looked around, and couldn't find any detailed write-ups from someone who's done this, and this is my first car with struts. I haven't gone any further than removing the strut assemblies from the car.

So:

1) Should I expect this to be simple (place the insert inside the "oil chamber" of the strut), or will I need to take this somewhere (since I'm no machinist)?

2) How do I set the insert to full soft? Or, what setting is recommended? I like driving on curvy roads, but this is obviously no track toy.

Thanks!

[DJ]

The Konis SHOULD slip right in without any modifications.

Here's Koni's general instructions for adjusting that type of strut.


Adjustment Procedure 76, 80, 82, 86, 87, 88, 90, 8040, 8240 Series
Rebound Adjustment Procedures

Remove the shock absorber from the vehicle and hold it vertically with the lower eye or pin attached in a vise. Use clamp plates to prevent damage.
Fully collapse the shock absorber, at the same time turning the dust cap or piston rod slowly to the left (counterclockwise), until it is felt that the cams of the adjustment nut engage in the recesses of the foot valve assembly.
Some shock absorbers include a bump rubber concealed under the dust cover and it must be removed prior to adjusting.

The damper may have already been adjusted. Therefore check whether the shock absorber is in the adjustment position or not by keeping it collapsed and gently turning it further to the left counting at the same time the half turns until a stop is felt. Stop turning then and do not use force.

Keeping the shock absorber collapsed, make 1 half turn (180 degrees) to the right (clockwise). In case of prior adjustment add the number of half the turns previously found. The total range is about 5 half turns.
Pull the shock absorber out vertically without turning for at least 1 cm to disengage the adjusting mechanism. The dust cap or piston rod may now be turned freely.

ADJUSTING DIRECTION
Clockwise = Firmer
Counter Clockwise = Softer

Jim Keller or one of the other Beta folks should be able to advise as to a good setting for them.

[SubGothius]

I think any modification of the strut body is only required for using some substitute insert that was never designed for a Beta in the first place, or perhaps those designed for a different model of Beta (i.e. using HPE/sedan units in a coupe/Zagato or vice-versa). Inserts explicitly spec'd for your Beta application should just fit right in directly without modification.

For a comfortable but still sharp-handling sedan, I'd just go fully least-firm (can't accurately call it "soft" when we're talking Konis ;) ) on the adjustment, which only determines rebound rate and not compression anyway. My Zag has Koni inserts that the PO had dialed about halfway firmer in the rear when he installed them; he said he'd been meaning to take them out and dial them back to least-hard, and I have to say I'm inclined to agree.

[davidb]

IIRC the Konis I put in my Sedan yrs. ago were set to
"normal". Ride was fine. I'd do Konis in the rear too
to have all 4 corners the same. When I say the ride
was fine, @ that setting it was tight. Way I wanted it.
Not harsh mind you. I was blasting around Missouri
country roads back then selling real estate so I wanted
a taught feel. Faster to get from point "A" to "B". Even
w/meager stock horsepower, solely me onboard, that car
handled MUCH better w/the Konis. Switchbacks, curves,
I felt more confident. Granted I pushed it most of the time.
For a relatively large car [for a Beta] it handled very well.

[ckeen74]

Thanks, everybody. Wish me luck when I dive into this either this Sunday or next weekend!

[ckeen74]

Finally got into this yesterday, and couldn't get the bolt off the top of the strut assembly. Before you ask, I have the springs held down with spring compressors. That said, heaving on the bolt does not do any good. Seems to me like that weird dished washer with the two slots in it is some kind of locking device... how do I get this apart? If this requires the purchase of some unusual tool, advice on where to buy it would be appreciated.

Thanks!

[DJ]

Finally got into this yesterday, and couldn't get the bolt off the top of the strut assembly. Before you ask, I have the springs held down with spring compressors. That said, heaving on the bolt does not do any good. Seems to me like that weird dished washer with the two slots in it is some kind of locking device... how do I get this apart? If this requires the purchase of some unusual tool, advice on where to buy it would be appreciated.

Thanks!

That dished washer is flat on 2 sides and will hold the shaft from rotating when removing/installing the nut. A set of ChannelLock pliers or a pipe wrench will grab and hold it but may mar the edge a bit. I've never seen a special tool for it but I'm sure one exists. I've also seen someone use a large flat screwdriver in the notch on one side to hold it.

Nowadays I use a small rubber strap wrench double-wrapped around the shaft to keep it from rotating when removing or installing the top nut. Obviously, you don't want to grab the shaft with pliers or anything else that can damage the surface.

The big trick to removing the old nut is using an impact wrench to loosen it.

[rossocorsa]

better to loosen it before compressing the springs air impact is best way to slacken as regards holding it there was a special fiat tool for this function as with most things!!

[ckeen74]

Thanks - sounds like I need to take it in to my mechanic, since I'm not equipped with air wrench and a good vise to hold the strut assembly...

[Jim Keller]

You can get scarey like me and take them apart without a spring compressor, just take them to your back yard with a pair of good heavy work gloves on, point the bottom of the strut away from anything, hold the top mount firmly down on the ground, keeping your fingers off the spring, and use your impact to remove the top nut after bending down the nut lock tab. The front struts will pop about 3 to 5 feet out into your yard, the rears won't go anywhere, (in fact, you can re-install the rears without a spring compressor if you have someone to hold down on the spring while you install the upper mount, they don't have any assembled compression to speak of like the fronts do. When it pops apart, the upper mount will stay in your hand and spring will pretty much fall within an inch or two of the upper mount, nut will be in your impact socket and you'll need to watch for where the lock washer falls.......he he he, I know, scarey!

[ckeen74]

Hahah. Yeah, don't have that kind of space (or the cojones) to release a strut without a compressor on the spring.

That said, I managed to get the top nut loose when a shopmate lent me his air wrench, so got the upper mount, spring, and lower mount off, but then got stumped by the retaining ring that holds the "shock" assembly together. I tried wedging a screwdriver in one of the 4 slots and banging on it with a hammer, and it was too tight for a flimsy pin wrench. At that point, I decided to quit while I was ahead and reassembled everything to take the car to All Italian Day in Alameda yesterday.

Before this "one step ahead, two steps back" weekend, I'd already spoken to my Lancia mechanic, and we're going to disassemble next Saturday. Barring any miracle tool materializing in the next couple of days, that's the plan.

[Charley]

Soak the tube top retainer with PB Blaster or the stuff I prefer,
Free All (http://www.freealloil.com/index.html)
over night. Then mount the strut in a vise I and hit the nut with an air chisel (loaded with a flat bit) carefully on each edge of the flat spots around the perimeter of the retainer nut. When it breaks loose,a large pipe wrench will work to spin it off. You can also apply heat to the threads with a torch if necessary.

[DJ]

Or, I could send you a proper tool to use so you don't destroy the nut. But I'd have to have good confidence that I'd get it back. :)

Don't mean to sound too untrusting but I lost my wheel bearing tools by loaning them to a member here a couple years back.

But I'd be happy to loan it to you.

[ckeen74]

Thanks for the offers of help and tools - I'm just too impatient/lazy to deal with shipping the factory tool.

I took the struts (minus the springs, which I managed to remove) over to Jaan Hjorth in Berkeley. Turns out the Konis are not for a Beta sedan - at least, that retainer nut wouldn't fit over the top of them, and wouldn't screw anywhere near enough to hold them in. So I hopped in the trusty Alfetta and ran back down to San Leandro to pick up the inserts I grabbed in England over a year ago. Luckily, they were a perfect fit! Although it was quite a struggle getting the strut assemblies together and back in, with a lot of cursing (you hateful car! why must you torment me?), I prevailed. And just in time for a drive with the (Alfa) Berlina Register folks on Sunday. The car handles great now, and even though I had to shift a lot to keep the 1800 on the boil, it was a lot of fun in the twisties. It handles pretty well while ironing out the bumps in the road, which is what you mostly hear about French cars.

On a side note, my $11 Harbor Freight spring compressors fell apart after a several hits from an air wrench, but luckily I was finishing up releasing the spring compressors and nothing bad happened.

Anybody know where I can do a reverse lookup on my Konis to find out what they're really for? I wonder if the guy who sold them to DJ accidentally sent the rears...

[Jim Keller]

You can try contacting:

Koni North America
1961A International Way....... (hey, I was born in 1961! LOL),
Hebron, KY 41048
859-488-0316
Fax: 859-334-3340
Email: lgrimes@koni-na.com (Lee Grimes, Automotive and Motorsports Product Manager)

That's also where you send them for rebuilding

They should be able to tell you with out any problems, they have given me a lot of free advice and info over the years, very helpful, but every dang time I sent them my struts for rebiuld, they charged me!!!....ha ha