Amazeing, totally amazing

[Allen Lofland]

I just explained this mith that the 1800 cam and the 1608 Euro and NA cams are the same and you use this as an example of an upgrade.....O My this is tempting. I own a 1608 Euro cam. want to buy it hehe.
It's got the right part number for the 1608 Euro cam and it comes with the VIN nubmer of the 1608 Coupe that was exported to New Zealand with dual 40 idf's FROM THE FACTORY :) Hot cam,,,cheap. But of cource as I said,,,it is identitcal to the 1608, 1800 NA cams and it is also identical to your 1800 Lancia Beta NA cam and your 2 liter NA cam. Want to check this out, What you do is Purchase or at least borrow and verify originallity as Will Holden did and measure them all. You can find his information right her on Lancista. If I have made an assumption not verified by Wills work I apologize, just look at his graphs of all these cams. I beleive the only cam that had any difference to speak of was the quirk on the Scorpion NA cam :) No real realson for this is known.

[lanciahf]

I read the same thing!! The way I heard the story was the cam wheels are different between the 1608,1800 & 2000 engines. Especially true for the 2000 Carb versus FI 2000 engines...

Anyone have a euro 1608 cam wheel that they can verify against an 1800 NA cam wheel?

Closet Beta Lover

[Will]

.....I'm in sort of the unique position at this point of having degreed, well, a whole lot of FIAT/Lancia cams. The resulting graphs Allen referred to are the ones in the photo section, under "Will Holding's Albums" (last page) then under the "cam profiles" album.

There are two basic elements to the cam system, the shaft and the pulley, or wheel.

The grind of the shaft determines its lift and duration between the point the valve opens and closes, or lift "integral".

The location of the dowel hole in the cam wheel determines the timing, relative to the crankshaft.

FIAT/Lancia cams generally share the same lift integral (grind of cam shaft) with a few notable exceptions (Vx, for instance).

All cams are set up so the dowel hole is directly (180 degrees) opposite the #1 lobe.

This means that any timing changes get made in the WHEEL, not the cam shaft. (makes sense, since the pulley is the cheaper part).

In order to see if the cam wheels are different, you can just look at the timing figures for the two different cars. This will clearly show you how much offset one wheel has vs. another, if any.

Now comes the dicey part: They can drift- by as much as 8 crank degrees when cold (don't believe it- try moving the exhaust cam on a cold motor and watch what happens, you'll get nearly five degrees of slop out of it!)

The good news is: There's so much drag on the cams, that they always tension BACK (retarding) against the belt cogs.

So: To read your "real world" timing accurately, you have to have a warm motor and turn it in the direction of rotation while you have a DTI against the top of the shim bucket. AND, you need to check the shim bucket for "tip" first by rocking it in the hole it goes through. Some of them move.

Hope this helps.

-Will