Power Steering Rack Boot

[budzinsk]

Hello.

I noticed that one of my steering rack boots has a tear in it. How hard is it to replace the boot? At first inspection it looks like I need to remove and disassemble the rack in order to replace the boot - does that sound right? Do they make a split boot for it?

Thanks,
Rob

[CraigInPa]

Unfortunately, you need to take the rack apart to replace the boots.

[budzinsk]

Uhhgg.. Thanks Craig!
Rob

[SubGothius]

You definitely don't need to take the rack apart, but removing the rack from the car may be advisable if you have the time to spare.

Some have claimed that they replaced their accordion boots with the rack still in the car and only partially unmounted from the firewall without undoing the linkage to the steering column. This seems like a PITA job with the tight confines you've got to work with, but it may make for quicker work than completely removing the rack, albeit more difficult in practice.

Boil your new boot(s) just before installation to soften up the rubber for stretching over obstacles. Looks like it'd be a chore to get the boots stretched over and past the hydraulic line fittings at the passenger-side (US/LHD) end of the rack, and at the other end, you've got the brake booster and master cylinder to work around. Once you've got the new boot(s) on, you can use a common plastic ziptie to secure the boot collars in place.

[Pope1]

I changed one in situ a while ago. Got the car up on ramps and did most of the work underneath.

[CraigInPa]

I changed one in situ a while ago. Got the car up on ramps and did most of the work underneath.

Where were you when I did mine in 1994? I tried every which way to get them on without removing the rack, and, in the end, removed the rack from the car because I just couldn't get my hands in there to fully seat them in the correct spots.

Ditto the comment about putting them in warm water to soften them. Just make sure they're absolutely dry inside before you start to install them.

Craig

[budzinsk]

Thanks everyone...

[Jim Keller]

Always remember when working on a Beta. MOST, (or at least a lot), of the work is done thru the wheel wells, not from above or below, like steering rack work, remove the lower metal engine splash shields and the tie rod splash boots in the wheel wells, that will allow you to get at a lot of the rack componants and slide the boots on/off, it can be done in car by just removing the center tie rod conections and firewall mounting bolts and brackets.
I guess boiling it is one way, but a little coating of WD40 or light grease makes things slide on/off pretty nice too

[DJ]

I guess boiling it is one way, but a little coating of WD40 or light grease makes things slide on/off pretty nice too

Even better is soapy water. It dries and doesn't hang around like oil or grease which causes it to still slide around.

[Pope1]

Where were you when I did mine in 1994? I tried every which way to get them on without removing the rack, and, in the end, removed the rack from the car because I just couldn't get my hands in there to fully seat them in the correct spots.

Ditto the comment about putting them in warm water to soften them. Just make sure they're absolutely dry inside before you start to install them.

Craig

I only did mine about 2 years ago. ;)

[budzinsk]

Thanks guys. I actually pulled the engine and subframe - so i have easy access to the rack.

Rob

[SubGothius]

Thanks guys. I actually pulled the engine and subframe - so i have easy access to the rack.

Y'know, if one has the means and the time for that operation, I reckon that's definitely the way to go for most front-end repair jobs that aren't readily at hand underhood, solves most of the access problems in one swell foop! :D

[Jim Keller]

Well HELL! pulling the drive train takes all the fun out of making a pretzel out of yourself to work on it! LOL

Heck, If you went that far, you might as well go thru it all, put a clutch/pressure plate/release bearing in it, do the starter selinoid terminals and wiring up grade, gaskets, timing belt, hoses, vac lines, CV boots and greasing, detailed cleaning/painting etc.....
Remember, take your time, do it right.....DO IT ONCE!

[budzinsk]

Yes, thats my plan. I figured i do not need it on the road as a daily driver so I want to make it as reliable as possible. I already resealed the engine and transmission this weekend. I put a new timing belt and tensioner and water pump on it. I ordered the steering rack boots and wishbone bushings from BetaBoyz today. That will be my project when they arrive.

Can you give me details on the Wiring Upgrade you mentioned?
Thanks,
Rob

[Pope1]

Y'know, if one has the means and the time for that operation, I reckon that's definitely the way to go for most front-end repair jobs that aren't readily at hand underhood, solves most of the access problems in one swell foop! :D

Yes indeed. Had a new garage built about 9 months ago and made sure the builder installed a lifting beam if/when I need to remove mine again.

[Jim Keller]

Wiring upgrades simple, if you look at the red supply wire for the starter seloniod, the small one, you'll see it has a few connectors on it inline from the battery tray down to the starter, all corroded, including the wiring too, back from the terminal a ways and the selinoids terminal will be nasty too, remove all that wire and connectors and cut the factory wire prior to the plug connection at the battery tray to eliminate that as well, you can either install a replacement plug in terminal at the battery tray for pulling the drive train or just hard wire in once you re-install the drive train a one piece of "new" same gauge wire cut to proper length to a new terminal end, use a good automotive type with covered terminal, they only cost pennies more, clean the seliniod terminal well, install the new replacement one piece wire with plenty of electrical grease on connectors to keep out moisture and tuck neatly back into the wiring sheath.
That will eliminate the common problem of it not starting after driving a while, then stopping and shutting it off a few min and it not turning over when you try to re-start a few min later, like stopping to fill up for gas on a trip, or gettting a six pack at a carry out. Not sure about the 75 thru 78 versions, my 75 and two 76's never had the probelm, but I now that's an "every car suffers it at one time or another" common 79 thru 82 Beta problem, and it's all in those corroded connections and wiring in that one section from and including that plug at the battery try to the seliniod conection

[budzinsk]

Thanks Jim. This is exactly what I needed. I will do the mod this week!

Rob