Gear linkage removal

[Grundo Farb]

I have a new gearbox linkage bush kit installed in my 'parts' coupe and want to change that with my absolutely knackered linkage on my other going car. I have removed all the nuts on the forward linkage and removed the small control arm - so no nuts are holding the linkage in. But I can't for the life of me remove the linkage - are the ball studs which attach the linkage to the gearbox and centre pivot threaded through the holes as they don't seem to want to come out otherwise. Any tips would be highly apperciated as its a tricky spot to get your hands and an idea of how to do it would help!

[len_newstrum]

I have a new gearbox linkage bush kit installed in my 'parts' coupe and want to change that with my absolutely knackered linkage on my other going car. I have removed all the nuts on the forward linkage and removed the small control arm - so no nuts are holding the linkage in. But I can't for the life of me remove the linkage - are the ball studs which attach the linkage to the gearbox and centre pivot threaded through the holes as they don't seem to want to come out otherwise. Any tips would be highly apperciated as its a tricky spot to get your hands and an idea of how to do it would help!I just did that two days ago!!

I don't remember whether the linkage is threaded, but I do know that I had to get a wrench onto the ball just to get the nut off. The problem is that it takes a thin short 13mm wrench and the shoulder below the ball is not a hex, as one would expect, but just two flats. It is indeed tight in there. You may not have the problem, but the Ansa header that I have really exacerbated the situation. A couple of extra joints in your forearm would really help.

A couple of other hints: 1) If you are replacing the rubber boot at the firewall don't try taking it off over the engine end (which looks easier); it comes off over the gearshift lever end. You can use a screwdriver to ease it over the yoke without splitting it--if you are careful. 2) After the rod/gearshift lever assembly is back in place, don't snug it down tight, you may have to shift it fore/aft a bit after you try the gears (the holes are slotted). 3) When you are done, check that the shift lever is vertical (ie, lined up with the air conditioner knob (if you have a/c) when third or fourth gear is engaged. You can adjust it at the connection between the gearbox and the extreme end of the forward rod; lengthen the rod to move the gearshift rod to the left, shorten it to move it right. 4) If you have an a/c car and it doesn't work (and hopefully you've removed the components in the engine compartment, especially the #%$&* compressor) cut off that condensate drain hose next to the shift rod and plug it (to keep engine smells out of the car). One less thing to snake through the console during reassembly.

What a difference replacing that bushing made. The slop is gone and it goes into gear like a hot knife through butter.:cheers: