Re-bushing A arms

[KeppelmanJ]

My A arms are out, sandblasted and repainted. One bushing among the four was loose in the a arm. I found two at Obert's (all they had) and will replace them in that a arm. I gather the pivot movement is all in the rubber, that the bushing doesn't move either on the bolt or within the A arm. What's the procedure for putting the bushings in? Beta Factory shop manual shows using a installer gizmo with a gauge operated by a torque wrench.... I don't have Haynes at the moment.

[Charley]

I made a puller type tool to draw the bushings into the a-arm bores.I used some threaded rod with nuts/washers and through a couple of big different sized sockets where needed.Tighten until the shoulders on the bushings seats in the bore.
Here is the "Jim Keller beer drinking installation method" for installing the renewed a-arms on the car that he posted when I did my a-arms !
http://www.lancisti.net/forum/showpost.php?p=15213&postcount=17

Worked for me ! And FYI you can substitute a Benjamin Air Rifle for the 22/250.

[Jim Keller]

God! I forgot about that post! LOL, thanks! I needed the humorous uplift! ha ha ha ha ha ha

[KeppelmanJ]

Charley, as I visualize your improvised tool, sockets, all-thread, washers, etc, it still sounds like you are pushing from the big side of the bushing rather than pulling. How do you get hold of the small end to the bushing to pull? And as to the installation of the arms, I'm going to be better off w/o the beer and varmint gun. With enough frustration I might miss the apple. If possible, one would want to torque the pivot bolts with the car at weighted resting ride height, right? No tension on the rubber bushings up or down.

[Charley]

Here are some photos of the tool I made.The tool can be used for both removal of old bushings and installation of new.I used a 1+7/8" OD piece of exhaust pipe,some threaded rod,washers,nuts,and also used a 1' socket (for removal of old bushings).
First photo shows tool.Second photo shows tool installed for installation of new bushings.Third photo shows rubber trimmed off the inside of the old bushing in preparation for removal.Last photo shows tool installed for removal of old bushing.
http://lancisti.net/photopost/data/897/medium/IM001964.JPG
http://lancisti.net/photopost/data/897/medium/IM001967.JPG
http://lancisti.net/photopost/data/897/medium/IM001965.JPG
http://lancisti.net/photopost/data/897/medium/IM001966.JPG

[KeppelmanJ]

Ingenious, Charley. Thanks for including the very helpful pictures. Nice to be able to swap the pipe bit to reverse the force. Is this done dry, ie, no slide lube on the bushing? I would guess so since it shouldn't turn in use.

[Charley]

I didn't use any lubricant on the bushings.All went together well.

[KeppelmanJ]

I could only get two new bushings (from Obert) in my moment of impulse to do this job, and fortunately only needed two, the rears on both sides. I assume the rears wear faster because of the brakes. It took longer to put it all back together than to take apart, of course. Most annoying was getting the anti-sway bar ends lined up with up with the bolt holes in the a-arms. Took a couple clamps and another pair of hands with a flash light to finally get the bolts started. Why didn't they make that easier? An alignment hole in the bottom of the A-arm to direct the clamp would help a bunch. In retrospect I understand why Keller recommended alcohol. I'll have mine this evening as a reward.