View Full Version : Weatherproof inside of conv. top?
OperaHawk
6th July 2009, 05:10 PM
Hey all.
I know the easiest answer to this question is 'get another top,' but I'm going to ignore that since I don't have the buckage (my wife would kill me). ;)
My conv. top is in pretty good shape, with a couple of rips/holes that I have repaired with flexible glue and strips of top underneath. But the top still leaks, mostly around the seams for the window. Has anyone found a spray-on or paint-on material that will help with the waterproofing and won't be TOO thick to cause problems with dropping the top?
I await the answers...
SBJ
Charley
6th July 2009, 09:20 PM
This stuff from JCWhitney (http://www.jcwhitney.com/RAGGTOPP-FABRIC-PROTECTANT/GP_2011865_N_111+10201+600016806_10101.jcw) claims it restores lost water and stain repellency on convertible tops to like factory new.
davidb
7th July 2009, 01:00 PM
NEW top from I.A.P., I prefer the less expensive one. I think the
more expensive canvas looking one looks funky. Good luck install-
ing either flavor. My upohlstery guy would'nt touch it. Did it myself,
took weeks. Gonna take all Summer to allow the Sun to stretch
the vinyl for the back bar to be strapped in properly. Another
challenge Steven. Go for it!
len_newstrum
7th July 2009, 02:45 PM
This stuff from JCWhitney (http://www.jcwhitney.com/RAGGTOPP-FABRIC-PROTECTANT/GP_2011865_N_111+10201+600016806_10101.jcw) claims it restores lost water and stain repellency on convertible tops to like factory new.I used a top dressing in 1953 on the original top on my 1940 Plymouth convertible. It looked like new, lasted two years and worked well until the top ripped off, right along the windshield, while cruising at about 80mph. It wrapped around the center top-bow and the front half of the canvas went into the back seat, completely engulfing my rather frantic passenger. In the rear view mirror it looked like a bear had gotten into a tent and panicked!
Seriously; it worked well although it made the canvas a little brittle so I just put the top down in the spring and didn't put it back up until fall. I would expect that in the last 56 years top dressings have been improved dramatically. For about 20 bucks you can't go far wrong. Better living through chemistry.
davidb
7th July 2009, 04:12 PM
W/all due respect to Len + others applying any nature of "goop"
if the thing is trashed is a half-arse measure. Look like carp-
ola. I.A.P.'s Robbin's rear window is $365. If you can't install
it yourself I'd double or treble that price for the install: it's
very time consuming to do it properly. As Jim has said 'ya
gotta fold/peel that front seam DOWN while glueing the top
bar. The back bar is another issue. The, what I like to call,
the middle tension bar [where the straps go thru] is another
thing. I MUST say this is a difficult time-consuming process
overall. Glue adhesion & folding the seams for waterproofing
is paramount. Overall one of the most difficult tasks I've done
on my LBZ. Luck Steven . . .
len_newstrum
7th July 2009, 10:12 PM
W/all due respect to Len + others applying any nature of "goop"
if the thing is trashed is a half-arse measure. Look like carp-
ola. Sometimes the "half-arse" measure makes sense when you are short of time or money. A few weeks ago my power steering rack sprung a leak. I have three of them: the leaking one on my driver, a known good one on my parts car, and one of unknown condition on my shelf. I can easily afford to have one rebuilt, but not the time (it is summer and my landscaped half-acre needs a lot of work).
I called Ray at Performance Apex to find out if he could rebuild a rack or recommend someone. His answer was no, he didn't do racks, gave me the name of local rebuilder, but recommended just putting some PS seal softener in. I did (cost less than $3) and it worked.
"Half-arsed"? Sure, but it will get me by until I have the time to do it right. I don't see a down-side to that. But then again, I'm not anal about my cars.:D
davidb
8th July 2009, 07:56 AM
For something like that Len I agree: your P.S. leak. Matter
of fact I appreciate that tip as my P.S. has a smallish leak
that some "Stoppo-O-Leako" might fix. I think draining my
P.S. system & putting in Valvoline synthetic may be the cause.
That said a ratty, patched rear LBZ window is highly visible.
And highly objectionable cosmetically, to me anyway. There
may be others but TMK Allen, Jim & I are the only people who
have posted re: replacing an LBZ window themselves. Jim's
advise about keeping the roof seam pointed down was invaluable
for me [thanks Jim!]. IMHO a new window is what Steven should
do. Reiterating, installing one is a wholey thankless task. Glueing
the vinyl to the metal bars was a nightmare [for me]. Enough . . .
SubGothius
9th July 2009, 03:37 AM
If the stitching itself is still good, just seeping water at the seams, I wonder if there might be some sort of thin, watery sealant that remains flexible enough when dry/cured that you could apply along the stitching with a brush or syringe (from the inside where a bodge-up won't show ;)), where it would soak the thread and seep thru the stitching holes to improve the seal? Heck, if you've got nothing to lose and the only alternative is a new top, you might even try superglue; at least that's thin enough to maybe do the job temporarily?
FWIW, I got a cheap new top from A.A. Best Co. for well under $200 over 3 years ago that's still holding up alright. Not as nicely-constructed as a Robbins vinyl top (that's the one to get if you want to really do it right), but it does the job. Only took me an afternoon to replace the old top with the new one. Best's old site seems to be offline, but if they're still in business, might be worth a call:
A. A. Best Company
4720 State Route 890
Sunbury, PA 17801
Phone 570-286-8696
Jim Keller
11th July 2009, 07:48 AM
Geeze Louise!......Haven't any of you guys ever "tent" camped in your younger, "able to sleep on the ground still" days?!!! ha ha ha
Just go to your local WalMart or like store, head into the outdoor camping/fishing department and buy a bottle of "Tent Seam Sealer" that's what the stuff is for, sealing "stitched" seams on tents, I have used it very successfully on many stitched Lancia tops..........I hate the exposed "stitching" cheapo tops due partly to appearence but mainly just for this "leaking at the seams" reason
jp
15th July 2009, 04:30 AM
I am budgeting for a new Robbins top as next years project. This summer has been one stupid thing after anotherl, new CV joint and bearing, now a new inner tie rod bushing. I really like the look of the pricey cloth tops but I have heard that they do not ever fit well
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.1.10 Copyright © 2012 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.