82 LBZ crank pulley bolt

[Todd D.]

I'm trying to undo the crank pulley bolt on an 82 Zagato. All the cars in my fleet have a
32mm nut holding the crank pulley on. This 82 Zagato has a 22mm bolt that passes through
3 large thick washers then into the crank. I've tried everything except heating it cherry red
to undo it. Is there a possibility that it is reverse threaded?
Does anybody have any suggestions?

[DJ]

I have heard of reverse threaded pulley fasteners on some FIAT engines. Have you tried reversing an impact wrench and trying to remove it?

[Todd D.]

I have also heard that early twin cams had a reverse threaded bolt.
I have tried the impact socket both ways with no results.
Todd

[Will]

I have also heard that early twin cams had a reverse threaded bolt.
I have tried the impact socket both ways with no results.
Todd

Yeah, IIRC the bolted crank pulleys use rev thread. Kroil and a Thundergun should do ya.

[Todd D.]

Thanks for the help guys.
It was reverse threaded, and the thunder gun did the job after it soaked all night.
Todd

[KeppelmanJ]

I suppose this is more trouble than anyone else will care to go to, but to solve this problem (removing the retaining bolts) and to keep anything from moving when I change the belt, I made a pattern of aluminum plate which fits between the pulleys vertically and under the belt. I did it by holding the plate behind the pulleys, traced the teeth pattern and cut the negative space out. Once slid between the pulleys and fitting the teeth, you can do whatever you want and the pulleys wont turn. Can't recall why, but I think I made it in two pieces which bolt together.

[KeppelmanJ]

Oops, misread this post as having to do with cam pulleys. Sorry...

[len_newstrum]

This trick is for power steering pumps that have toothed pulleys. It applies when you've taken the AC compressor off and want to drive the PS from the crank pulley that originally drove both the AC compressor and the PS pump. It should work for the crank pulley, too, as they are both the same diameter. The PS pump spins freely when you want to take the pulley bolt off--which is necessary when removing the pump.

Use one the oil filter wrenches that have a self-tightening steel band and handle. They come in various sizes so you have to measure the pulley diameter and pick one with an appropriate range. The advantage is that you don't risk damaging the pulley teeth: even slight damage could ruin the toothed belt in short order. I think the toque required to loosen/tighten the crank pulley is considerable higher, but the filter wrenches should be able to take it.

In a related note. My el cheapo, made in China, impact tool wouldn't budge the well rusted crank nut, even when the air pressure was cranked up to 90 psi. I got it off by using a long socket extender to get the socket wrench handle out past the fender and fitting a four-foot pipe to the handle. By putting a jackstand under the extension right before the handle it was easy to keep the socket on the nut. With the parking brake on and the gearbox engaged the nut broke free easily.