Dipstick tube seal

[radioal]

Is there supposed to be a seal at the bottom end of the dipstick tube where it slides into the block? Maybe a rubber washer of something? I've got a little oil in that area and am trying to figure out if it is coming from the crankcase vent gizmo or the dipstick tube.

The car in question is a US spec (so just a plain dipstick with no level sensor) 1800 coupe.

It seems like I've seen this discussed here before, but I can't seem to find it of remember the answer.

Al

[Jim Keller]

Should be an O-ring under a flare in the dip stick tube that compresses into the block

[Will]

Yeah, Al- ther's supposed to be a rubber bushing- it forms a sleeve around the dipstick with a fairly wide, but flat flange at the top edge. Sometimes the flange part falls off, you might still have the sleeve on the dipstick.

If you can't locate a bushing, you might try pulling the tube, wrapping it with silicone tape and shoving it back in place. I would avoid teflon with the possible exception of gas line tape (thicker). The bushing is only dealing with oil splash, but if you have a leak oil will come out of the hole as you noted.

[davidb]

As Will implied anything rubber need be rated oil resistent. Between
oil splashing on it + those nasty crankcase fumes, well. Not unlike
the vertical rubber swirl pot hose: gotta be oil/gas resistent rated.
Also as Will implied there's workarounds w/different materials. Luck.

[Will]

Jim's reply has got me thinking- whether he is talking about the compression-gland setup (like the Scorpion 1800 has). I was thinking of the 2L's, I don't know offhand what an 1800 Coupe has, actually- suffice it to say it should have something as a seal.

[davidb]

Me too Will. IIRC it's a 19 MM OD female nut holding the tube in
place. Ergo an "O" ring to seal the tube flange. Gez where is
my brain going ? Still need oil resistent "O" ring BTW.

[radioal]

I will try to find a suitable o-ring. I bet an HVAC o-ring would work. They need to withstand compressor oil at high pressure. For what its worth, there is no nut involved. The tube is held in place with a bolt from the top next to the belt cover. The bottom is just a straight tube with a flange like a flat washer a couple of inches from the end.

BTW, I just finished a valve job on the Beta. If this is the worst issue that I ran across, life is good.

Thanks!

Al

[Will]

I will try to find a suitable o-ring. I bet an HVAC o-ring would work. They need to withstand compressor oil at high pressure. For what its worth, there is no nut involved. The tube is held in place with a bolt from the top next to the belt cover. The bottom is just a straight tube with a flange like a flat washer a couple of inches from the end.

BTW, I just finished a valve job on the Beta. If this is the worst issue that I ran across, life is good.

Thanks!

Al

Yeah, actually I'd stay away from an o-ring- the part you had is what I described in post #3. The sleeve part of it has two bump ridges that make the seal AROUND the dipstick. Trying to seal the flange of the dipstick downwards on an o-ring is probably not going to work for long IMO if the dipstick tube is only secured at the top (typical). Chances are it's going to move around slightly with changes in temperature, etc. Likewise, I think silicone or other "gooey" sealant would fail after a short period also.

[radioal]

OK, now I am confused. Are you talking about the seal for the dipstick itself which is the same generic Fiat part as on all my other cars, or the seal between the block and the outer tube which is the one I am talking about??

[Jim Keller]

No, the others are right, it has a sleeve of sorts on the tube that compresses into the block, I am not sure what the hell I was thinking of. Take out the bolt on the bracket for the tube and you should be able to easily wiggle the tube out and see for yourself plus check it's condition.

The first thing I usually do to a Beta when I get one is super clean it inside and out, but most inportantly, I always go under/in/around and upside down in my crappiest car cloths and scrape, scrub and chemical clean the engine, engine bay and surroundoing areas and devices entirely, then drive it and see where it starts leaking from, you may find it to be something very minor if you get all the years of build up off. By cleaning it throughly, you will find most of it's problems along the way and be able to make a "To Do" list plus not get as crummy working on it! LOL and it also takes away a most if not all of that "Old Musty Car" smell in the process