Slow Running Valve & Twin Carbs

[Darren]

Hi Guys,

A quick question - I'm just in the process of getting to the point where I'm going to try and start the car this weekend, assuming I can get everything else sorted out! I'm getting there, but I just wanted to clarify what to do with the slow running valve wire. This usually goes to the solenoid on the standard carb, which cuts the ignition. The wire is white with a red strip and runs to the positive side of the coil.

My thinking is that if grounded will cut the ignition and if left, should allow things to run ok? Is this correct or have I had too much coffee and not enough sleep?? :):eek:

Cheers!

[ecohen2]

Mine is just not connected... The previous owner gutted the solenoid so its just sitting in the carb with the wire well taped but loose.

Ed


Hi Guys,

A quick question - I'm just in the process of getting to the point where I'm going to try and start the car this weekend, assuming I can get everything else sorted out! I'm getting there, but I just wanted to clarify what to do with the slow running valve wire. This usually goes to the solenoid on the standard carb, which cuts the ignition. The wire is white with a red strip and runs to the positive side of the coil.

My thinking is that if grounded will cut the ignition and if left, should allow things to run ok? Is this correct or have I had too much coffee and not enough sleep?? :):eek:

Cheers!

[pabeaver]

If you are talking about the solenoid valve on the carburetor, this is the idle mixture cutoff. It needs to be energized to run. Do not ground anything that is not black. As someone else said, you can take the guts out with not too much of a problem and insulate the wire from the coil.

[DJ]

If you are talking about the solenoid valve on the carburetor, this is the idle mixture cutoff. It needs to be energized to run. Do not ground anything that is not black. As someone else said, you can take the guts out with not too much of a problem and insulate the wire from the coil.

Specifically, this little doohickey cuts off fuel flow when the ignition is turned off. It prevents run-on (or "dieseling") on a hot engine.

FWIW, my car came from the PO with the plunger removed. This was a common thing and was presented by many knowledgeables (Bernie Benz for one) as something desirable. Personally, I feel it is another example of one of the numerous half-assed "fixes" these cars have been subjected to over the years instead of fixing the "problem" correctly.

With the plunger removed, my car ran excessively rich. I discovered that the reason the PO had removed it was because the solenoid ceased functioning. Investigation showed that this was because, for whatever reason, there was only about 1-2 volts on the power wire when the ignition was turned on. I reinstalled the plunger and ran the wire to the hot side of the coil and the solenoid's functionality was restored. And magically, my over-rich problem ceased immediately.

[Darren]

Thanks for the info guys - and rereading my original post, I really should have repeated the subject line. I accept exactly what has been said and would certainly use the solenoid if the original carb setup was to be retained. However, I'm going with twin dcnf's on an alquatti manifold, so there isn't anywhere for the solenoid to go.

I think that given that, I will remove the whole wire back to the coil. I really just wanted to check that it's removal was not going to have any knock-on effects.

I think I'm going to have the same problem as Daveb with fitment of the carb box due to the height of the carbs, but that's another story!

[1,6 HF]

DJ,

Are you implying that Lancia actually put some thought into engineering these cars?

[Geoff T]

Hey guys,
That extra wire is very handy if you happen to fit twin carbs and install an electric fuel pump, as series 2 Monte's reverted to a mechanical one. (why I'll never know!). The wire is perfect for the feed to the pump as it switches on and off with the ignition. May need to be extended depending on where you locate the pump. Mine is fitted above the fuel tank and works a treat! Mechanical pumps are next to useless as you have to crank the engine over forever to get the carbs filled if it has been standing for a couple of days.

Geoff T

1982 S2 Montecarlo

[Otto-valvole-per-tutte]

Hey guys,
That extra wire is very handy if you happen to fit twin carbs and install an electric fuel pump, as series 2 Monte's reverted to a mechanical one. (why I'll never know!). The wire is perfect for the feed to the pump as it switches on and off with the ignition.

Exactly my thoughts. Have bought the Facet pump and the pressure regulator (filter king) via Monte hospital.

What about installing a fuel cut off device in case of emergency? Maybe via the oil pressure switch?

Cheers, Pieter

[Will]

Geoff's suggestion is an excellent one, and Pieter, you have the right i9dea, but don't try to do it like Lancia did on the Scorpion (and maybe Monte) with two relays and other miscellaneous shite.

Holley makes a SPDT oil pressure switch just for this purpose, it connects the ignition only when cranking with no oil pressure OR when oil pressure exists. The only thing you have to do it mate the 1/8" NPT nose of the thing up to your oil system.