Please help explain how to fit new link bushes...

[loulou21]

Hi All,

Got some progress with my Monte but I have tried everything to fit the new Montehospital gearlink bushes,
Read a lot about it, warm them in hot water etc...
Have tried everything, they just do not go in the ball heads...!

I'm feeling kind of desperate, is there an actuall trick os special tool needed?

Help on this matter would be mostly appreciated,

Cheers,

Olivier

[davidb]

If you are making reference to the graphite colored linkage
bushings that "pop-in" to the balls on the linkage bars proper
they need be pushed &/or forced in. It's a untidey but necessary
measure. I employed "Vise-Grips" to pop them in place w/a
tad of silicone lubricant. Not much mind you. Not a pleasant
task but that's the only way I found to do mine. This is a
caveat emptor suggestion but it functioned for me & they've
held thus far. Good luck.

[loulou21]

Thanks for your answer,
What are the Wise grip you are refering to ? used several clamps but did not pop in...

I am right if I first fit the bushes in the linkage and then try to pop in the bars in the ball heads ?

[DJ]

First of all, this task can be frustrating at first blush but is actually an extremely simple thing to do. I've seen many different approaches, like special tools and boiling the bushes to soften them up. Forget all that.

All you need is a small bench vise (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=212027-28920-33150). I have a very small one that clamps on to a table and it cost around $20. If you don't have one you should probably get one anyway because you'll find lots of uses for it.

Just put a bit of grease on the bush, then set the bush and the linkage into the vise jaws so that they are held snugly and aligned as straight as you can get them.

Then just tighten the vise slowly and watch the bush squeeze into the linkage. The bush may get a little cocked as it goes in but don't worry about it. Just keep tightening the vise and keep the linkage as straight as you can. It will straighten out. Even if it's still a little cocked when you get it tightened all the way down, move to the next step. You won't get it all the way through anyway because the bush has a lip that has to come out on the other side.

Once you have it in as far as you can get it, remove it from the vise, set the linkage on a solid surface with the end hanging over the edge and lightly whack the backside of the bush with a mallet or hammer.

The bush will pop completely into the linkage. You may find that part of the lip hasn't come all the way through. If so, just whack it again with the hammer. If that doesn't work, just use a small screwdriver to work it all the way into position.

This can be done in 30 seconds or less per bush with a little practice. Don't worry about deforming the bush. They are extremely tough and it's almost impossible to hurt them with this method.

The hardest one to install is the top one on the vertical shift linkage which mounts into the bracket permanently affixed to the underside of the package shelf. The easiest way I've found to install it is to use a large pair of Channel-lock (http://www.channellock.com/acb/stores/1/430__10_inch_Tongue_and_Groove_Plier_P54C3.cfm) pliers and use essentially the same technique I've outlined above.

FWIW, I've also seen people struggle with removing the old bushes. This too, is simple because you shouldn't plan on reusing them anyway. Just take a razor utility knife and slice off the back side of the bush. It then just slides right out.

[davidb]

I have a micorwave in my shop & heated one bushing @ a time
in a cup of water. That & a dab of silicone helped. I put a coin
over the bushing top to keep it "leveled". Also prevents the vise-
grip jaw from chewing into the bushing top. The ball shaft bases
were splined interference [tapered] press fits that sometime
work loose requiring some spot welding. If they've wiggled free
you'll have enormous slop.

[Jim Keller]

I did both my Scorps as DJ described, except I used a big C-clamp instead of channel lock pliers for the one on the car (:-) I've never heated a bush to mak i soft

So far as removing the old, I use a huge drill bit, normally it wipes them right out as soon as the bit hits the bush, you can get hurt playing with razor blades! (;-)

[DJ]

So far as removing the old, I use a huge drill bit, normally it wipes them right out as soon as the bit hits the bush, you can get hurt playing with razor blades! (;-)

Yeah, and I've drilled holes in myself with power tools, too! (A Phillips bit in a drill motor doesn't drill wood or metal very well but it does an ugly job on your finger.) :eek: I guess it just depends on which kind of wound you prefer to have. ;)

[davidb]

Ha-Ha, I didn't have an issue w/my old bushings. Two were
absent the others were a brittle mess which just flew apart
& the other one was a gooey mess that squirted right out.
I can't imagine how the guy I bought this thing from shifted
it @ all.

[loulou21]

Thanks to all, I finallly got thrm all in, quite a hard work and te silicone grease made it !

Shift nice now without excessive play,

next step, engine mounts...

[Will]

For the record, heating them up helps enormously if you have the pink ones (OEM or the ones Caribou Ed sells), it's not a big deal to do without on Chad's (graphite colored ones).

General rule of thumb with plastics: heating in oil is usually better than in water. The temps can be higher, and the oil does not cause the plastic to "dry out' as much.

Olive oil works great as a heating medium/lubricant, you can add a clove of garlic and put on some Puccini to get in the mood, while you decide between a Chianti Classico or a Super-Tuscan. On second thought, it's not a good day to spend in the garage is it?

The graphite ones are a snap, but they are also softer. The pink ones can be a bitch without heating, but they are also the only kit to include the crossmsmber bushing (at least, as of eight years ago). Ed doesn't sell the crossmember bushing alone, but you can "combine" kits.