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davidb
16th October 2007, 11:22 AM
I've replaced most of my front suspension. I got new
tie-rod ends from C. Obert,V. expensive. Proper length
for a '76. Just looking @ the rotors I can't get them
looking forward in any decent manner & yes I've adjusted
the threaded spindles many times. I think I need pull the
steering wheel to get @ least it aligned. It's off like 60
degrees. How do pull the steering wheel ? Thanks .

DJ
16th October 2007, 12:21 PM
Actually pretty simple.

Use a small screwdriver to gently pry the horn button out.

Remove the large nut you see underneath. I like to use an air-driven impact wrench for this but you can use a regular socket and ratchet/pull handle.

Use a simple 2-arm puller to remove the wheel from the spline. If you don't have one you probably should but you can normally get a loaner from many parts houses.

Shouldn't be too difficult. You may have to tap the puller shaft a bit with a hammer after putting some stress on it by tightening the center screw.

When re-installing, be sure to put some anti-seize on the spline.

1,6 HF
16th October 2007, 08:19 PM
If you don't have a simple 2-arm puller, and you're going to try to remove the wheel by tapping with a hammer and pulling it manually, it's a good idea to back the main nut off almost all the way, but not remove it. That way, when the wheel comes loose you won't end up with it imprinted on your face.

DJ
16th October 2007, 11:34 PM
Excellent point, even IF using a puller.

Will
17th October 2007, 01:51 PM
IMO you really don't want to be pulling the wheel art this point. First, you need to get both front wheels parallel. If you can't, then make sure you have the right hubs. Last I communicated with you via email you had early X (1300) hubs- these are not correct. You need late (1500) X hubs AFAIK.

If the wheels are parallel and aligned, and the steering wheel is off by 60 degrees, and you have a six-bolt hub. you might ask yourself if the wheel may have been taken off and reinstalled on the hub in the wrong clocking?

I personally think a good way to do a rough alignment is to use tape to mark the wheel at the extents of lock-to-lock to find the center of the rack, then mark the 12 o clock position on the wheel with an index spike. Then get your toe into rough alignment, and then fool with the wheel if necessary. If the car was in alignment before the car was taken apart, and the wheel was not removed, it should not be off by anywhere near 60 degrees.

The advice you got here is correct for removing the wheel- but I don't think that's your problem.

davidb
18th October 2007, 07:48 AM
This is a '76 US Scorpion which should mean Series #1. My repair
shop lost the front carriers. C.Obert made new tie rod ends for
me. They are the 20mm longer ones for S #1's according to Monte
Hospital. They match my old ones, those weren't lost. My research
indicated '76s take [X 1/9] 1300 carriers/bearings '77s 1500 same/
same. One site said interchangeable, doubt that, who knows ? Matt
@ MidWest X/19 sent me rebuilt 1300 carriers [I think ?]. After more
adjusting I have this: steering wheel centered/level. Driver's side
rotor looks straight w/approx. 1/2" of thread exposed on steering link.
Passengers rotor is cocked in a tad @ the front, no thread exposed on
the link, fully screwed in. I'm guessing I could saw off 1/4" - 1/2" of the
passengers side tie rod tip to screw it further onto the steering link &
bring the rotor on that side into a straighter position. Ideas? Thanks
all !