Frozen Fulvia Brakes

[bobbyc]

OK I've done a dumb thing. While working on the interior and replacing windows, I let my Series 2 Fulvia sit too long, 9 months in all, waiting for new upolstry, headliner, guages etc., and it now appears that the brakes are frozen (rusted?) solid. I can no longer push the car in neutral nor do the wheels spin when jacked up. Is there a method of freeing them or do I just take them to bits using penetrating oil?

[Charley]

Although I am not familiar with a Fulvia's brake arrangement I will give you some educated guess work.Did you park the car with the hand brake on? If so,I would first guess that the brake cable may be the culprit.If the cable got rusted in place the e-brake arm on the rear calipers will be held in the "on" position.Get a pair of pliers and grab the arm(s) and pull out against the cable.If the arms move,good.Lube or replace the cable.If it is the sliders (or other hardware) on the calipers that rusted try some penetrating oil and tap them back and forth until free,(TRY TO KEEP OIL OFF OF ROTORS AND PADS)then remove them and clean them good up or replace them.If the caliper's piston is frozen,you might get lucky and be able to use a c-clamp to push the pistons into the bores,and free them..But if the caliper's bores or pistons are scored or pitted the calipers may leak and will need to be replaced (or honed and rebuilt).
Good luck
Charley

[1,6 HF]

I'd certainly agree with Charley that you should check the e brake first; they're notorious on Fulvias. (Personally, I never leave mine on when parked on a reasonably flat surface.) Hopefully, some penetrating oil on the e brake will take care of it.

If it is the calipers, there may be little alternative to stripping them down completely. Again, though, it's worth trying penetrating oil first. In fact, I wouldn't even worry about keeping the oil off the rotors and pads--drown the entire assembly if necessary. If the brakes have been frozen that long, you'll probably want to replace the pads anyway (it's no trouble to degrease the rotors). And if it works, and you get away without a complete rebuild, you can figure you got away cheap for just the cost of new pads.

[bobbyc]

Thanks Charley and Ed! I foolishly left the e-brake on, a thing I rarely do. I'll be celebrating Columbus Day working on the Fulvia.

[1,6 HF]

Bobby,
The fact that it's the e brake is actually great news. It's a pain in the ass, but it should be pretty straightforward (beats rebuilding the brake calipers). I think Charley's procedure to unfreeze it covers thing pretty well, except that I'd be tempted to use penetrating oil on the various components first--then grab the pliers.

BTW, what S2 Fulvia do you have?

[bobbyc]

Thanks again Ed, Charley I've got a 1971 Series 2 and a 1968 (?) Series 1. The S2 is a stock 1.3 in complete but only semi-drivable condition. The S1 is also a 1.3 but is mostly apart. I've just sold a basket case S3 that I got last year. In retropsect I don't know why I got it, there wasn't an unrusted, unhit panel or a single working mechanical piece; perhaps just the allure of having a 1, 2 and 3? My expertise, if any, was in 1956-1957 Corvettes but over the pasted 15 years I've been priced out of the marque and vintage. E-brake soaking will have a go later today!

[1,6 HF]

Bobby,

Good riddance to the S3; good luck with the e-brake.

I'm working on an informal registry of the Fulvia coupes in the US and Canada. I assume that your '68 S1 is a 1.3S (818.360), and I'd even like to track the S3. Can you PM me?

[Dave Simons]

Guys, just noticed this thread.... A couple of things: series 2/3 Fulvias have Girling brakes (4 pot caliper on the front) not the Dunlop type of the first series cars - that is a very good thing. The handbrake is actually a miniature drum brake inside the disc hub - nowhere near the caliper. In 30 years of Fulvia ownership I've never seen the drum brake stick on in storage - the cable and equaliser yes, but not the brake itself.Granted, always a first time..

Second I would definately not recommend drowning the caliper in penetrating oil! The oil will damage the rubber components beyond reclamation. If the car has been sitting around for a long time the calipers should be overhauled anyway. A much easier task on the second series. Parts are easy to get.

By making the rubber seals swell, the penetrating oil can cause the brakes to stick on even more.

Have you jacked the car to determine if it is only the rear wheels having a problem?

[bobbyc]

Have taken everything apart, garage is awash in brake parts. I used the penetrating oil sparingly with a restraint borne of the fear that I'd screw up more parts. Rear brakes were froze, fronts rusty but grudgingly turned. Drum type e-brake looked pretty bad too. Have also bitten another brake related bullet and will replace master cylinder over the winter. So much for a quick ride in the Fulvia to see the leaves turn in beautiful northwestern Connecticut. I was relegated to my daily driver, a 2007 GTI, also a blast to drive but in a totally different way. Thanks for all of your suggestions.