View Full Version : Timing Montecarlo S1

24th May 2003, 12:39 PM
I have just fitted one of Chads new Electronic Ignition kits to my S1 Montecarlo and timed it up.

The thing is my timing strobe is not long enough to use on the timing marks where you have to remove the wheel under the engine. So I timed it up on the holes in the cam pully's and the marks on the cam cover.

I expected the engine to run best when timed with these marks perfectly inline. But it seems to run better when the hole in the pully is about 1/2" clockwise past the mark on the cam cover.

I have noticed that someone has made an additional mark 1" to the left of the hole on the pully and it is roughly in between these two marks that I have timed.

Engine does seem to run loads better and more evenly than with the old points but does anyone have any helpful comments. What is the optimum timing position?

Allen Lofland
24th May 2003, 05:34 PM
Which unit did you get,,,,,Crane ?
Did you Phaze the unit ????

24th May 2003, 06:07 PM
Do you NOT have the little window/hole in the top of the tranmission housing? If so, there should be an indicator "pointer" on the clutch assembly that can be used for timing. The forward mark on the housing indicates Top-Dead Center. Moving rearward, the other two indicate 5 degrees before TDC and 10 degrees before TDC, respectively.

If you time exactly at the marks on the cams you will time it at TDC which normally isn't correct. Our US Scorpions are timed (as stock) at 10 degrees BTDC. Some time at a little more or less BTDC. Mine is currently timed at approximately 13 degrees BTDC. Many say that's appropriate for high altitudes like here in Denver and it does seem to help a bit.

If, when you say "clockwise past the marks" you mean while looking at the back of the wheels (looking from the tranny end), then your timing is probably just about right because that would be before TDC (the engine rotates anti-clockwise when looking from that end).

Also, make sure you are timing to the number 4 cylinder, NOT the number 1 cylinder. That's a common mistake.

My timing lamp leads aren't very long either. I used to use a set of jumper cables to run power from the battery up front untill I realized I could just clamp to the hot wire on the coil.

25th May 2003, 03:30 AM

I got the Luminition Constant energy one. The one with the coil included.

What is Phaze?


25th May 2003, 09:30 AM
DJ is right; it's important to differentiate between cam timing and ignition timing.
To do the cam timing, use the window in the bellhousing (or crank pointer if the engine is not in the car) and the timing marks on the cam pulleys. Line all up with the respective marks and fit the belt.
For ignition timing, be aware that although #1 and #4 have the same mechanical timing (same position on the crank) #1 will be on the exhaust stroke while #4 will be on the compression stroke ( the valve timing is shifted 180 cam degrees) For this reason, if you want to time to #1, be aware that you will NOT see the holes in the timing gears, because they will be on the bottom, out of sight. If you are timing to #4, the ignition timing will be about 2 teeth ahead on the cam wheels vs. the actual mechanical timing of the motor. Those indicators are not used for setting the ignition timing, use the gearbox window or the pointer on the nose pulley for ignition timing.

25th May 2003, 12:02 PM
Thanks will do that.

Just driven to a hill climb (spectator) and all the car ran far better and quicker than ever before it still pinks up hills in low gears though. (that buzzing sound). Will time from the window you suggest and see what happens.


26th May 2003, 07:36 AM

Just tried the window, but I cant see any marks in there from which to time. Any Ideas?


26th May 2003, 08:59 AM
Personally - I would be tempted to adjust the timing gradually forward until it "pinks" a bit under load (ewg up a hill etc) and then knock it back a smidge - so it doesn't.

Timming marks don't take into account the fuel octane rating, state of the engine etc etc.

Actully running it does !

26th May 2003, 10:05 AM
You can make your own mark if you can't find one, put the motor at tdc and make a mark that lines up with the forwardmost of the three lines on the bellhousing.
Once you have the motor timed where you want it, make a new mark on the bellhousing that lines up with your new line on the clutch cover.
Wallace's point is a good one. You probably want to be a couple of crank degrees shy of where you stop pinging under load .